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Inside I'd probably use gatorfoam, if it needs an edge treatment I'd add some plastic trim/molding.Then it would be possible to hang using cleats with VHB & adhesive, with maybe a few screws for insurance

Oh, for the days when this was the big subject for debate! Back when I tried all the tricks. When I tried screws I used eye screws so I had a little handle to tighten. Seemed to slow it down but not completely. I have a feeling the lids are thinner like you said which could interfere. Me, I...

Wow, that is weird. Does have a similar look to the Avery problems, but they looked "moldier" than that.I'm with the doors being the source of the issue.

I'd look at HP Designjets. Been around a long time and are pretty foolproof.

Yea, not exactly up on all that stuff, though I know I should be. And it would vary widely depending on the size pf the shop and location. Signs Of The Times does an industry wide survey every year that has those kinds of numbers broken down by size of shop.

You can make a sub frame from 1"x1" aluminum tube which can be cut assembled using simple hand tools. It is available from most decent sign suppliers and there are corners and tees to make assembly simple. The frame is a little more problematic without a sheet metal bender. You can buy premade...

I was looking for something very similar a few weeks ago, no luck. I quoted using aluminum angle.

I was just trying to be ya know...creative Only thing I'd change now is spell is SIGNZ.

Can you tell me what to do with a DC4 that has never worked right.

Top right. Loose the dot over the i

top

I use Gerber (3M) Flourescent vinyl. A primer is used when you are printing on anything other than white, so your color foil comes out correct. Usually the primer coat is white. So when I'm printing on colored vinyl I will select primer on for all the colors except black, which I print a a...

In some of those photos the vinyl looks pockmarked, may just be the vinyl. I use Gerber fluorescents when printing, but it can still be tricky. I usually do a prime coat for everything except black, which I do a double hit on. Fred's suggestion of printing the Fluoro is a good idea.

he's in England

What Marlene said and I would also buy green panels (as per Mike's suggestion), easier to cover and in the future scratches will be less noticeable. Rolling it is OK, spraying it is better, even if you just rent one for the day.

For a one off If the design is simple enough you could use a paint mask & Krylon

ACM and I would use VHB with Lexel

I'm inclined to agree with Frank, new signs may be best. It can be repaired, it would be nice to actually know what kind of paint was used but after cleaning and repairs it can be given a coat of a universal primer then sprayed with a top coat that gives you the finish you want.

These have the one you show, chance a are they aren't going to find exactly what they want. Angle Iron Sign Frames

Lind Sign Spring, they were a merchant member here