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I came here thinking I could help but I guess I'm not as good as I thought. My bosses daughter is in the 99% percentile in punctuation. I'll ask her if I see her!

It's just something I saw here on signs101 a while back. You know how the internet can be!

That's what we do! We are fairly limited on Roland machines however. Myself and the other techs are all trained and certified on Mimaki and Mutoh printers but we also work on Rolands in the field but usually only the older ones.

I totally agree. The cutter should act as a dongle in my opinion. I think you need a space between FineCut and the 8.

Check your blade to make sure the tip's not broken. Then double check that your offset setting is correctly set. If you changed blade angle recently and didn't change the offset, that would also cause the same issue.

I heard thru the grapevine that you can burn a blank CD and title it FineCut 8 and it will verify it. Never tried it but it's worth a shot.

The manifold is going to melt when ink gets into it. You should put a solvent manifold on it before installing it. Also, the machine simply won't accept an aqueous head rank.Just use the old one. That should allow it to work.

I never want to be the guy who disses other techs but if both times he was there the fuses mysteriously blew, that's a red flag. I've worked on machines for over 10 years and I've blown 2 fuses. My co-worker who's been doing it for about 4 years hasn't had one yet. When a fuse blows the first...

Try opening it directly in VersaWorks then. A lot of the time the RIP can process things other programs can't.

I tried to open it in Illustrator and it gave an error of, "An unknown imaging construct was encountered." It loaded but was all messed up. If I open it in Acrobat it looks correct. My best guess is that one of the designers uses a different program to design that isn't saving PDFs properly. Can...

I think my co-worker spoke to you on the phone about this. Just to see if I can add any insight, usually when the USB fails on that board it's either physically desoldered from the board or the chip that handles the USB protocol is fried. If you can find a person who is good with fixing surface...

Unfortunately since these machines are made in Japan they just convert to imperial when they export it to us so the sizes never really line up with standard sizes here. The closest bet would be the bigger Mutoh as it can print to the edges but as a lot of people have said here, for what you are...

They probably bought that $50k Mac. You know how designers can be ;)

I agree with Gino. I have a customer running the Mimaki but he prints on custom silverware and small promotional items. For signs these machines are not very efficient due to the size.

Here is a 19" x 13" from Mutoh And their bigger 19" x 23" Here is an 11.8" x 16.5" from Mimaki and their bigger 24" x 17" I prefer Mimaki for UV at the end of the day.

I have a customer who makes prints like the first one on his JFX200 flatbed printer. I don't think the bottom one would be feasible on a flat bad so probably agree with above that it's dye sub.

This is one of my biggest pet peeves in this industry. You send over a beautiful, full size, vector file and they rasterize it down to 100dpi. I get that their system is probably automated and that's just what the programmer thought would be most efficient but it always sucks to see the stair...

The official way - Look under the machine right below the capping station. There is a hole that has a metal bar inside it and if you spin it, the capping station will move down. There is a special tool that makes it easy but you can use pliers or something like that. Then you just push the head...

I'd get samples from Epson, Roland, Mimaki and Mutoh. Ecosol printers can print great backlits but Mimaki also has a roll to roll UV printer that prints high quality. With ecosol and UV you are looking at about 0.15 - 0.35 per square foot using OEM inks. You can cut that down with aftermarkets...

Deflections happen when the ink doesn't fire straight down and instead fires sideways. You would notice it on a nozzle check. The lines will look wavy and out of place. It could be a partially clogged nozzle which can cause pressure to build up and make a nozzle fire longer than it should. I...