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You need to add more tension on the top roll. Since the material is reverse wound the top roll is rotating in the opposite direction. You may have to flip the top roll holder so the top roll has some tension and is not spinning loosely. I'm not sure if that's possible with that laminator though...

I just returned two rolls of 3751 with the same problem. I'm going back to 3M IJ180.

Can you mount the prints to a vinyl with stronger adhesive and then mount to the Gatorboard? It may be a little thicker but I doubt anyone would notice.

The 3420 is a 3mil film and the 1460 is a 1mil film. Maybe the 3420's extra thickness is causing enough pressure uneveness to cause it to walk or bunch up where the 1460 it goes unnoticed.

Exactly. Only one shop number and they'll set up a toll free number if you want one. The only downside is that the caller ID on your cell will show as your shop number on all calls going through system. It's no big deal for us though.

We use Grasshopper here. It forwards calls to your cell phone and everyone here has their own cell phone. It uses an auto attendant and can have as many lines as you want.

You can try Cosmo's Hi-tac film or D&K's Superstick film but from experience nothing really sticks well to Xerox's fuser oils. Letting them dry after printing and not cutting for 24 hours after laminating is recommended.

We use Midwest Sign Supply.

Thanks for the help. I'll give it a try.

It's definitely jumping all over the place. Can you explain "pulling a light vacuum" a little more. Would that be the tubes under the caps while the heads are parked?

It does have wipers but it's not just a few nozzles missing. It's like 50% of the nozzles are missing. I was thinking the machine is starving itself during the clean cycle. Does that make sense?

I'm having a problem with a Seiko Colorpainter64. After a fill cap my magenta head looks fine. But when I send a job the machine auto cleans and then the magenta head shows banding. I can fill cap again and the test print looks fine again but then it auto cleans and ruins it again. How do I stop...

Did you ever figure this out? I seem to be having the same problem with a Seiko Colorpainter. There's about a 10" wide area that has "micro banding". I'm pretty sure it's not from a bad head because the rest of the print looks fine and it seems to happen with all the colors. My area is about...

Mostly Ultraflex but I'm still have buckling issues on wider rolls. I liked the look and feel of the Herculite but image quality just wasn't that good. I'm open for opinions too. I'm always trying new stuff.

I think it just the material. I had the same problem with a roll of 13oz Herculite. The area under the pinch rollers printed darker leaving a striped look on the image. Also the whole image was printing a lot lighter than usual. It's probably a bad roll but for the price (about 2x the...

Some emulsion needs to be mixed with an activator before using. Not sure about the one you're using.

It's a good customer but I'm usually notified after completion of the job when I contact them. It's like "BTW these have to be shipped today to these locations." Then I have to repackage everything over again and rush to get it out by the end of the day. Then I have to reinvoice if I want to...

Just wondering how people handle customers that want their jobs shipped for them. Suppose you made 10 signs for them and instead of them just picking it up, they want 2 shipped to NY, 2 to Chicago, etc. Then they give you their Fed Ex number. I want to be nice but I feel like just telling them...

I usually buy 51" laminate for my 54" rolls. Hardly ever print to the edges anyways.

I think your initial way is the best way to do it. The time it takes to lay down the first couple of inches by hand is a lot greater than the time it takes to flip the print and run through twice. On larger prints it aligns better than starting on one edge and watching it travel 1/2" by the time...