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Sign Gold isn't "real"? It says 22K on the box. I thought it was real gold fused to a vinyl carrier sheet.

I've used the R tape, it's pretty good. We clear it with either a liquid like Frog Juice or lam with clear cast slightly larger than the vinyl.

For "real" engine turn gold SignGold or RealGold. For "imitation" Coburn films is good.

I like that idea. Plastic formed faces would simulate embossed metal pretty well. Then paint to get the right finish.

Were they embossed? Usually those were back then, not sure where you could find them now, though they are probably out there. If you want them to look like they did when new I think a routed face to simulate the embossed letters and a high gloss finish might do it. That may be too thick though...

The real thing, steel or metal is great but you could do a faux finish print on PVC. I did this for a client for a trade show booth, looked pretty cool.

Check out the Outwater Plastics catalog. You may find some exterior plastic millwork that you could use.

Looks great and the red is better. I agree with Marlene though, a little more industrial back panel (textured metal?) would've been killer.

Good luck with that. You can use Clearshield antigraffiti but trying to clean banners that are on a truck will be a PITA.

Tikiboy works his magic...except I would do the JD in black

For cut vinyl graphics I almost always bottom hinge. That way it can't flop down the way a top hinge does and I can split it into smaller sections if needed. Usually only center hinge on panels, not letters.

Bottom one, but like Jill said stack the JD and maybe have the hammer come out of the top of the J

I like this idea. I remeber one of the plastic letter companies (maybe Scott) would supply letters prespaced on transfer tape

You can make a spacing tape, a 1" wide strip of paper that has the bottom of the letters marked, tape to wall and apply letters. Gemini had these, you can see how they work on their site. The other thing is to do a paper "stencil" and cut out the letters. No need for centers.

Straight line?

I think the striping would be about $100 And you forgot sales time, travel time and cleaning the surface. You guys kick butt, because I think it would take me and a helper about an hour just to lay out the stripe unless it was following a molding or paint line. We usually put down a tape line to...

Maybe it's different for a plain gold stripe, but this is the Signgold with black outline that we use and it has a clear that traps the line.

That's for the 14" signgold that gets cut. Maybe I'm wrong, but I could swear the signgold striping already has a clear that seals the edge. I'm going to see if I have some around.

Not crazy, but does striping need edge sealing? I thought it was good to go as is. If I had to seal I would use a cast clear to trap it.

Hi Jim, good to see you back here. As for those signs, I haven't seen anything like it before. Unfortunately there were a lot of short lived ADA/Office sign system vendors back in the 80/90s or they could be custom. But maybe somebody here will recognize them. By the way, take good care of...