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Yea, I heard that about Rapidtac2, but still usually go dry. In the cold I take my time and burnish the print with my bare hand to try to warm it a bit before slowly peeling the transfer paper. There are some maniacs who use a heat gun/hair dryer. I guess it would work on a very low setting...

I have also found that Frog Juice gives a nice finish on 4 color edge prints. It seems to smooth out some of the grain and gradient.

Dry app, differences are black being opaque, layered and it on;y happened on the south side. Maybe outgassing from the panel being heated by the sun is a possibility.

The sign looks great, but the faux finish on the post is incredibly realistic

If I was using wood, 6"x6", it needs the strength and will look better. Here they'd be 3' in the ground

Is Blinkety Blanks still around? Pretty sure they had steel

We used to bend out own with a homemade rig. But we found a small plastics fabricator through the local plastics distributor and now sub to him

I get a lot and I always request new artwork in the proper format. If I don't get (depending on the client and the complexity of the logo) I offder the option of recreating it, and usually send to the vector doctor to handle it. Of course there are somethings that can't be reproduced without...

VHB and Lexel

I would tread lightly. I've pretty much given up on unsolicited suggestions for existing logos. it's a battle seldom won.

I've been to all three of those places, beautiful and spiritual country. As for our choices, many of those choices were decided by profit not by health.

I've did it for backlit panels. First I did an electric sign face with a stained glass look (see pic). Then I reproduced a bar back panel that was real stained glass (don't have a pic of that). But they were backlit, so it's a different look. To get a stained glass look on regular window I would...

I agree with Gino, paint the gator, though we use latex.

Very nice Philip

I never heard that wax was bad for vinyl graphics. I did some searching and I see that some have that opinion, but this 3M document says its ok. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/706037O/caring-for-your-vehicle-graphics-wraps.pdf

I had a customer who's race trailer was parked next to his building, one side protected by the building the other facing the sun. 10 years later the sun side is completely roached other side just needs cleaning to look good as new. With quality cast films it really is about exposure.

There are clear acrylic pockets made for that. This is the place we use http://www.displays2go.com/C-27343/Sign-Sleeves-Displaying-Printed-Business-Graphics and Staples among other places has them. Your only problem may be size.

Do you already have the paint gun(s)? If not have you considered an HVLP Turbine Sprayer? Unless you need the compressor for other uses they are a good option. That's what we use and we've been very satisfied.

Wow, they have a lot of unhappy customers and multiple websites devoted to problems with them. But from the sounds of it they're satisfied with schlock work from their subs, so should be easy to keep them happy :Big Laugh just get 50% down and balance on install.

Is it printed to the edge of the material? We do decals that are larger than 11.8", but they can't have any printing larger than that.