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That's going to be us shortly. Woke up to 1 degree C, the car encased in a half inch of ice (not exaggerating), and every street corner flooded. With all that water and slush flowing around, it'll be one hell of a mess tomorrow with the temperature already dropping.

Hey all. Weird issue with the JV3's heater, both pre and post: It'll heat up just fine, and start printing as it should when it reaches its target temperature, but at seemingly random points, after something has been printing for a while, it'll just stop. Both the "Heat" and "Constant" lights...

1. I'd open it up and check all connections/clean the boards. Sound like a short, maybe? Like the circuit for the "remote" switch is being closed and pulling it into local mode. 2. Any that you mentioned, plus manifolds. You could have a small fissure in them, causing you to lose pressure.

:thumb: Protip:

I thought the printable extent of the 130 was 52", no? What size is it actually? Is it at all possible that you have the wrong width setting on the printer? You'd probably have the carriage crashing into the side of the machine, but it's still worth looking into.

Definitely a concern. SS2 inks are rated as curable at 35C. Considering the energy it would take to heat to that through media, ideal heat settings would definitely be higher.

It'll immediately hide the symptoms, but it won't solve his problem. Media warping will cause colour and pattern distortions due to varied drop widths as they travel downward. That you can move the head higher is no question, but you should be able to print on just about anything in the low...

Yeah the thick/thin toggle is what I meant. Just wondering because without it, it's possible to set the carriage too low. If it were just one media raising, I'd say it's your media. Your heat's nowhere near high enough to cause warping in all of your media as well. You might have a busted...

What's your heat set at? Did you remove the High/Low toggle on the head carriage? Edit: Also, check under the heads to make sure there are no ink-stalactites. You might have enough clearance for a clean head, but not one with ink deposits around the sides.

There is a point where it won't let you do this anymore, but you can just grab a chip from another empty cart that you haven't done the same to, swap them, and plug it back in. You really need to keep an eye on your ink levels when you do that though. Don't want to get air in the lines, or...

Running Production House 7. Not sure if it's the same procedure, but if it exists, it should be like this: -Right-click on the job in the queue. -Edit > Printer Settings -Set "Ink Layers" slider to desired number of hits

Just an employee, so I have no say in selling, though we may be in the market for a flatbed in the next couple of years. Will probably always keep one JV3 around though. These things are tanks, and a joy to work on. Sure, they can sit with solvent in them for ages, but I wouldn't do that in a...

Never had to do it myself, and the manual only suggests doing a custody wash. I'd imagine you'd want to completely flush the lines too though. If I were doing it, I'd remove the heads as well, and gently flush those with solvent using two syringes, so they could be stored at room temperature...

Did Production Manager split the RIP file in two? When we ran Flexi, we had to make sure to drop both files into the prod manager for it to print properly, otherwise we'd only get half of the file and the it quit. One would just show up as a ".1" file, or something like that, so it wasn't...

Win7 lets you run programs under a virtual environment of previous OSes, so you shouldn't have any issues. If you do run into any speed bumps, it'll be with security keys and whatnot that aren't recognized anymore. Just to be safe? I'd install as a dual-boot, so you can jump back into your...

Durability, I'd say. They're both permanent cast overlams. Thickness seems to be the only difference. Edit: Oh weird, my product book also states DOL1060 has a gloss finish, while DOL1360 has a *high* gloss finish. Probably just someone forgot to highlight the right thing before copy-pasting...

Fine alignment is a must. If you have 20/20 vision, or even just a magnifying glass, it shouldn't be a problem. Just trial and error until the overlapped lines look good. A few things: 1. You said you tested at a higher resolution, but did you try at a lower rez? 2. Uni is a good mode for...

YUUUUUP. :thumb:

Above posters are correct. Media comp and different profiles in use. I'll also add nozzle deflection to that list. It's evident in the final, finished print, as the gap from the media comp isn't the only unsightly pattern, there's also a concentrated overlap line you get when a nozzle is angled...

How's the green text for readability? Would be my only concern, but hard to tell from a pic. Look awesome though! I'm on here so sporadically, but I always look forward to seeing your updates, and this is no exception. Good work :thumb: