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Also, check the head temps in the maintenance/service menu. I can't remember the exact route to get there or what normal is, but if a head(s) is bad, the temp will be way different than the others.

Ouch, looks like a couple different issues to me. A few questions... What ink and type (solvent, H2O, sub)? Why did you change the head(s) originally? The black lines through the print can be a few things. I'm pretty sure it's electrical. Check the ribbon cables to make sure they're seated...

Your nozzle check looks OK? Have you tried increasing the pass count?

I'd pull those carts out just in case the ink continues to retreat towards them. Wasting ink in the lines is one thing, but if it gets to the tanks that can be a huge waste.

I agree with heyskull. Does it print out after a few inches of a print and is only doing it on the nozzlecheck? Meaning, you get the weird nozzlecheck, but if you send a print the colors go back to normal after a while in the print? If one set of nozzles on the head aren't being cleaned...

Ah, yes, that would be a hurdle... My mistake! Is the process not the same? Is the issue with the chips and not being able to get cleaning fluid in the lines? It's been a while since I've messed with the OCE, but I think it can be done in a similar fashion.

Can't you just fill the tanks, or drop the inlet lines in a jug of IPA and do the manual flush? Pretty simple procedure. Here's their link to their YouTube instructional page. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRHrjK4_678yDzN4TkYnVvA I first flush the lines up to the secondary filters using the...

It's just physics. The rigid bulk carts won't collapse on themselves and a pouch will, thus creating a void of space that has to be offset somehow. Well, that offset is ink flowing b/c of positive pressure. We tried to build a bulk system with a 5L soft jug. NOT a good idea. The jug collapsed on...

That's good news (minus the cost). I've changed hundreds of heads and forgot to enter the head ID #s dozens of time in haste. Never had the slightest issue leaving the old # in the firmware.

Ok, go through the motions to swap dampers/lines and see. Based on my experience if the same nozzles are clogging/deflecting it's likely the head. It could be that the head is not capping up correctly. If it's determined the head is the issue, the good news is it's not clogged. You may be able...

What's your nozzle pattern look like?

Do not remove the dampers from the ink lines. Simply pull the dampers (still attached to ink lines) off the K and C heads and swap them so you're printing C out of the K head and vice versa. Obviously you'll need to do a cleaning or 2 in order to get the ink flowing properly. Then, run your same...

OK, I think you misunderstood me. Just for troubleshooting procedure you can swap the dampers on the top of the heads and run a few prints. It will only take an hour or less. If the ink, lines or dampers are the issue the black will continue to band from the C head. If the cyan prints deflect...

Temp and humidity seem OK. Have you replaced dampers? I don't think there is damage as you are capable of getting a good nozzle check. Could be a very slight ink demand issue. It's pretty easy to swap the dampers on top of the heads (swap C and K lines) to see if the issue follows the ink or...

Take a pic of your nozzle check before and after the print, as well as the print showing the issue.

Just trying to help determine what's causing the banding. Ink quality, clogging, voltage/temp, air, etc. I have had the same experiences with different inks. The dropping is most common in white in my experience. I have had experiences where my nozzle check is fine, but prints look like crap...

Your nozzle checks are OK, or are you losing nozzles?

I haven't worked with a JV3 in a very long time, but isn't the M on the same head as the Y? I'm trying to recall, but when the Y was out of alignment, the M would be too and they were sort of dependent on each other. (I certainly could be wrong here). I know one thing for certain: Running the...

The profile is automatically adding yellow in to your black. Redo the artwork to remove the Y. You can leave the C/M in the file. Then go into the RIP and turn off color management (input and output). That will print the exact output CMYK formula you used as the input. It probably will be...

What's the key sequence for getting into the #menu? Running FW3.10.