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I believe it's the F2 fuse on the head board. I'm not 100% sure where that board is located on your exact model. Most it's attached to the main board. Take a meter and measure across the F fuses and you'll know which one's bad. To determine the correct resistance fuse, just measure the...

Blown fuse on board. You can solder on a new axial fuse, spend $5 and not $1X00 for a new board. Search around on the forum. There are some good descriptions, and even some pics showing how to do it. Very common issue.

You replaced it with the same resistance fuse?

You can use an axial fuse too. Just solder over the existing fuse. Done it dozens of times. Just make sure it's the correct resistance, and you're good to go.

Does anyone know how much ink is used during the ink change procedure through the keypad? Per channel and total?

Yes, please elaborate. I'm using RasterLink5 and don't recall that option, but would love to have that ability. Do you know if you can do it with the clear also?

Sounds like a nightmare. Very tough to diagnose. Is the printer on a UPS? Obvious question is, did anything change? New location, outlet, lightning strike, breaker box, etc.

That is great news and nice to hear. Thank you.

Yes, definitely could be a bad cable, and the low temp reading is b/c the head cable is unplugged. I've blown those fuses dozens of times for many reasons. I touched a printer one time, had a spark off my had and poof. Blown fuse. Make sure your printer is on a rubber mat and not on carpet. The...

Hmm, are you using the Roland RIP or another one?

Sorry for late reply. Yes, the fill patterns are in maintenance mode and you can control each channel and the % of each. I think you can control dot patterns and resolutions too. It's been a while, so I'm going off memory.

How do the fill patterns look from the maintenance mode?

I'd like to know how common this is on other printers/RIPs. I've seen it before on Rolands too. I can't recall if I ever got a solid answer from the manufacturer or the SW company. I have to guess the longer the print, the more margin for error and if each print pass is just soooo slightly off...

Could be a refurb, or a knockoff.

If you're a member of LinkedIn, there's a Acuity and Arizona User's group I've found very helpful. Over 600 members. Just do a search for it.

Yes, never use IPA. It will dry out any seals/gaskets/orings. Ask the ink supplier. Some recommend 50/50 DI H2O/simple green, others 50/50 DI H2O/windex. I recommend the clear version of either solution. A little more difficult to find, but worth the trouble.

Create and print a big square with the same CMYK value of where the banding is evident. Mark where the banding is on the platen with tape or something. Get a laser thermometer (super cheap from Lowes/HD) and measure the heat across the platen. Kind of hard for the tech to argue if the banding...

Not sure the brand of ink you're using so make sure to use the flushing/cleaning solution they recommend (50/50 windex/DI H20 should be fine), but you can attach a syringe to the top of the head and flush that channel (carefully!). Make sure the "ink curtain" looks uniform. Unfortunately, it...

OK, so just to make sure we're on the same page. The same set of nozzles drop every time no matter what ink line is connected to the top of the head? If so, since this printer only has one capping station/pump and the other colors are OK, I'm leaning towards the head. But, don't freak out yet...

You guys using the LUS-150 or LH-100?