Search results

No, we ended up paying Decision One to come out and do it...turned into a bit of a fiasco. Apparently, they do not commonly replace just dampers without replacing heads, or so the tech said. The tech did it, but he said he had to remove the heads to replace the dampers so as not to make a...

Anyone ever replace the dampers on a GS6000 themselves? I'm just wondering how involved of a job it is. We purchased our GS6000 lightly used in 2011, and it was manufactured in 9/2008. I'm unsure if the dampers have ever been replaced...I know they haven't been replaced since we've owned it...

Just had another quick thought...what about white static cling? Could be applied wet and very easily removed. Since it's white, heat might not be too much of a problem. Thoughts??

I have a customer that is looking to put some printed window graphics along the tops of a long hallway of windows. The windows are 74" wide each (24 of them), and about 9 feet tall. The graphics would just cover the top 15" of each window. Kicker is that they want them viewable on the INSIDE...

Thanks for your input...job was successfully completed long ago. Sign and cleats were made from 12mm PVC, as described. Attached cleats to back of sign panels using Weld-On 16 adhesive, which seemed strong enough on its own, but I popped a half dozen screws in each cleat just to be sure...

Plastidip is NOT going to be a good solution. I've used plenty of the stuff for wheels, emblems, trim. It's relatively thick when applied properly, and in my opinion is going to stick out like a sore thumb. The way I see it you have two options: If it REALLY bothers you, and it sounds like it...

Pretty much the answer I was looking for. I realize everyone has their way of doing things, so you're going to get a lot of perfectly good answers when asking a question on a forum like this. This seems like the simplest method to me, as it uses materials I am very familiar with. PVC cleats...

I'm not really familiar with what you mentioned. This is going to be one long, continuous timeline graphic going on a concrete block wall at a large business (laminated, digital prints applied to the 12mm PVC). Overall size will be 48" high by 232" long, and the panels will be butted up to...

I don't WANT to put any screws through the face, if it can be avoided. The only reason to only use just a top cleat and a bottom spacer is for ease of installation. That second cleat has to be perfectly placed in order to be effective. Precision when installing is not really my strong suit...

I don't do a lot of installs, but I have a client looking to mount some 4x8 panels of 12mm PVC to a concrete block interior wall. I was thinking French cleat, also made of 12mm PVC. Do you think I need a cleat top and bottom or would just a top cleat and a bottom spacer be sufficient? How...

I tried the barrel method, but for whatever reason, I couldn't get the vinyl to droop. I had my heat gun on high and was applying heat for a good 3 minutes, but then I went to push my piece through the vinyl I could instantly tell the vinyl wasn't soft enough. I don't know if my heat gun isn't...

Let me preface this by saying I don't do wraps. I have a customer that has 5 of these small drop boxes that he wants partially wrapped. Wrapping the four flat sides is a no-brainer. The challenge is wrapping the front panel, which is basically a hinged door with rounded edges. The boxes...

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to have to look into a few of these options. One thing, from my experience, getting a thick felt squeegee (again, Mac-tac style, for lack of a better way to describe it) wet basically just ruins the squeegee because it expands (sometimes almost doubling in...

We don't usually install our own wraps. In fact, we just don't do very many wraps, but when we do, we print/laminate and we have someone else install. We mostly do flat signs and simple vehicle graphics. I've got a small, really simple wrap job that I need to install in a few days, it's a six...

No...do you mean flip every other panel 180 degrees in Onyx? Honestly, we don't do a lot of wraps, and we don't really print large areas of solid color all that often either. If that's something I should be doing, this is the first I've ever heard of it. I guess I could give it a shot, but I...

I've been running a GS6000 with Onyx X10 for a few years now, and while it works great and produces fantastic results 99% of the time, sometimes I will notice a color shift from one print to the next of the exact same thing. I just finished applying a large logo to a Lexan panel...had to split...

Not sure how to better describe the issue other than the prints are coming out slightly bowed, bowing the width of the media, not in the feed direction. It doesn't always happen, but sometimes when I go to trim out the prints and put my straight edge along the printed edge, the center will be...

FIXED!! I removed the pen block from the head assembly to confirm that it was the "Y-slider" (the plate with the rollers that attaches to the belt and runs along the rail) that was loose. There are four screws in between the two top rollers that apparently provide spring tension between the...

Thanks again for the replies. I've removed the cover on the cutting head, checked all the screws, nothing is loose. I've been talking to a tech and while he's had some great suggestions, none of them have addressed the situation of excessive slop in the cutting head. I've checked the blade...

Thanks for the replies. I've got the registration mark scanning figured out, so that isn't an issue anymore. Just need to get the weird cutting sorted at this point. I tried cutting some 220 White, just to see if it is any different. I always do cut tests when cutting different vinyl just to...