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Really grasping, but I've seen similar things happen when transparencies or blurs are added in PS or Illy then saved as a JPG or Tiff. Try having them save as a PNG, it handles transparency better sometimes. It's worth a shot.

I've never used it, but I'm definitely getting a sheet in. I'm with others here, I like the look better than seeing the flutes in Coro. If it's structurally stronger in all directions, unlike coro, it seems like it would have good uses for cheap, temp signage.

I tell them we won't reproduce or even price someone else's work. For a deposit, we'd be glad to sit down and design something that fits their needs/budget and proceed with the job. Frankly, I don't even want the customer that does this because they want it all for Walmart pricing.

I'd be more worried about who will be responsible for mounting those channels to the roof when it leaks, but that's just me.

It's dookie on an I beam, I think. Can't really tell.

Definitely watch the shopbot for sale forum. We picked up a very well taken care of 2004 5'x12' PRT Alpha with dust collection, Columbo spindle and vacuum hold down for $11k. Drove 3 hours to pick it up and bring it back to the shop. The user forums and tech support are really good and even...

I agree w/ the above. That's pretty typical for direct to coro print. It's a yard sign, from a distance (it's intended viewing) it's fine. If it needs to be crispy, I'm doing it in house and charging a LOT more than outsourcing the cheap direct to coro job.

Obviously not. If you have a straight line close to the image, it has to be straight.

Yeah, 1/8" over 8' or 10'? You're not going to see it. 1/8" in 24", you got a problem.

If I need it to be super accurate, I simply bleed my final color out beyond my contour cut. That way if it is off, you really can't see it. I'm on latex though, so I have the luxury of printing to the cut. I know on our setup, if I try to do really long runs of contour cuts, it gets off. Try...

This. We won't strip old faces, always make new ones. It looks like crap and it's your fault in the customer's eyes.

Like Ford pleating the tailgate of the F series trucks?

Pretty much all Oracal here as well. Good ICC profiles available. One thing I have discovered, no matter what the material or brand, make sure it has a solid paper backer. The poly type backers will melt and cause head strikes. Paper is a must for latex machines.

What ICC's are you using? Granted I run Flexi, not Onyx, but... HP's Oracal profiles give me orange reds every time. If I use Oracal's ICC, I get brilliant reds that are true. I find colors much better using the mfr's profiles.

The Architects get a % of those signs, they get a % of EVERYTHING going in. They purposely spec the highest price stuff so they can make more jing. I hate getting a bid packet and having to go through this with Architects. I just did one recently where they spec'd steel blanks for parking...

Same here, never an issue and we use 3751 pretty much daily.

Pioneer Supply has it. Medex from Harbor is supposed to be similar, but haven't tried it exterior yet (or Extira for that matter to compare).

Plasticade, or better looking versions from MagicMaster.

Victor Printing in Sharon, PA. should be able to do that for you. They are wholesale to the industry.

Yeah, you don't want cloud. Stick with V.10