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Delphin. Bold I think.

That almost looks like Times New Roman with a stroke on it, and "blurred" somehow. Do you know how this was made?

Oh yeah, why don't you do a search for "Recommend Plotter" and see what pops up, tiger? I got about 500 pages of tech-support, which is awesome because it means that people (other than you) are tripping over each-other to help out, but it's not what I need. I also don't need some snide forum...

So I've got this irritating magenta edge on the right side of most everything I print (this picture is rotated 90^ counterclockwise, BTW). Obviously, the magenta is somehow out of alignment. Just to cover the bases, I've done a simple Bi-Dir adjustment (looked fine), a detailed Bi-Dir (also...

JPEG Trainwreck Extended

Kabel.

Font Forge. Free, but not terribly easy to use.

Short Version: We need a new plotter. Not interested in any Graphtec, and I'm skeptical about Mimakis. Thanks in advance. Long Version: I have officially lost patience with our Graphtec. After owning the thing for maybe five months it's broken down three times, and we don't even use it that...

I always try to design logos so that they work in black and white, period. No grey, no gradients, just black and white. Once you get that established, then start adding color. Your concept is good, it just needs balance and some management of negative space. Also, Arial? I know I'm being a...

"Hershey's" looks like someone modified Press Gothic. The script might be custom. Look at how different the g's are.

Regardless of your workflow, you probably want to tell your customers to send you images that have been designed and saved in CMYK. This will likely save you hours and hours of explaining to people why R:0 G:0 B:100 is this mad, intense blue on a monitor but prints navy.

I assume you're getting that from the CM2 application inside Illustrator? Make sure you've only got the path you're cutting selected. Failing that, see if nudging up the size of your artboard (not your registration marks) doesn't help.

Unite is definitely the way to get your cut path. Now I assume each one of those, hmm, I guess we'll just call them "leaves," is an individual object with it's own fill? If so, I would clone everything twice, that way you've got three copies of the artwork inside a single document. I'd turn...

Sounds like Smart Guides. Try CTRL+U on a PC, or just look under the "View" drop-down for Smart Guides.

There's a tool setting under the conditions menu, and depending on what tool you've got the condition set to (for example, "PEN" vs "CB9U") it will assume that the knife is in one one collar or the other. Just for kicks, try putting the knife in the other collar and see what happens.

100dpi is a good number for just about any situation, close viewing included. If it's fifteen feet up a wall, you can easily get away with 50dpi. There are a whole lot of billboards out there printed at 25dpi. If the viewer isn't going to be able to walk up and look at this thing from two feet...

This file does have stuff outside of the artboard, but I've run lots of artwork with objects scattered outside of the artboard and that's never been an issue, so I'm not sure if that's the trigger, though it might be related somehow. As for the EPS solution, more than half of this job has...

Your yellow print head might be dying on you. Had a problem very similar to this with the cyan on our JV33 not too long ago. The color would just mysteriously drop, and then come back for minutes/hours/days and then it would fail again.

Yeah, it looks like someone spent their entire adolescence listening to Master of Puppets and didn't understand a word of it.

Very infrequently, I'll feed a PDF into Rasterlink(v5) and instead of RIPing the PDF normally, I'll get a blank white image. The dimensions are correct, there's just nothing but whitespace where the image is supposed to be. I've had this happen on two different computers that are hooked up to...