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Check your media...try another brand to see if the banding continues.
Check your profile.
Check calibration.
Check ALL head alignments.
Do you have a bulk system? Check the height of the bulk system, too low starves the heads, too high floods....
As you can see, there can be several issues to...
I guess it depends on exactly what you have in mind to print that you already cannot, and the difference of just how much more money you're going to charge, or make, using this new ink alone. The mild solvent prints on so many medias I can't imagine changing inks to print on one other media...
Be sure to put the battery in the new board. Did you save the parameters from your last board? You need to install the parameters to the new board. Install the new firmware. Initialize the printer. Peck does not have an "exe" tool, you need the old style of firmware updater to use with the Peck...
They have not successfully upgraded the firmware and/or initialize the printer.
Did you tell them to replace the battery from the old board?
Check DIP Switch settings.
Most importantly! Did they SAVE the perametors to replace? THIS IS IMPORTANT!
You should have the tech check the fuses for B & C group heads...and for the cause of blowing the fuses. Fuses are a LOT cheaper than a new board! many times the cause is loose flat cable (wire) connection(s) to the heads.
RTape chrome (gold, etc...) is printable and looks great. Allow to dry very well before contour cutting or laminating. If you cut too early (without laminating) the edges will curl.
It's never been able to do more than 250 in one file.
Are you sure you're not centered between the pinch wheels? Are you Getting Media Width first? This is where VW gets the width to center on. Check your media with on the printer and compare to VW.
First do a very good cleaning using swabs and a lot of solution. Then do a Medium Cleaning and look closely at your test print. If you still see overspray you have a damaged head ($995). The black part of Head 1 is always the first to be damaged as it's the first to hit an object.
Go to rolanddga.com ....Support....Choose your printer model (or at the bottom for legacy models) and click on Application and Software Guides.... you'll find a lot of information here to help.
You shouldn't need to replace unless you have worn or defective dampers, these last quite a long time. Ink starvation will be the key indicator when they need to be replaced - and be SURE to get the correct damper...third party dampers seals do not quite fit properly and become part of the...
To get the best prints on clear & static cling use the Overprint option (set to 2) and you'll see a much better print when holding up to the light. As a second option you may also double print...both work great for making the prints not look "washed out".
Does this happen with all your media or just the UltraFlex? Could be a defective roll. You may also want to check the pinch wheels - if you leave the wheels down for extended time while not printing the wheels get "flat spots" and cause your media to bunch - replace if needed (About $62/pair)
The print/cut multiple rows works great! Try it....you may find it very helpful. This is meant to use without alignment marks...print/cut only, otherwise you'd have many jobs with the crop marks in the Que stacked behind each other and wasting material.
First - What printer do you have? If you have a SP model it has no chip reader, it counts the pump cycles and the cartridge has the tab that extends out the side when the cartridge is empty (usually). Is this a Roland cartridge or 3rd party? How empty is the cartridge - it may be closer to empty...
Your sensor isn't dirty, it wouldn't read if it were. You need to adjust the CROP Adjustment (Service mode). This MUST be done FIRST before doing a Print & Cut Alignment. Once you have the Crop adjusted, then adjust the Print/Cut and do an Environmental Match.
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