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We sell to a lot of window tint shops and have good luck with Graphtecs - both CE and FC Roll series. The only thing they cut for the most part is window tint or paint protection film. They do it all day long and it's second nature to them much like cutting decals is for most of us here.

On Gerber plotters, I always do initial troubleshooting with Gerber 220 vinyl. What vinyl are you using? If it's Gerber vinyl, compare the punch pattern with an older roll to make sure that the holes are lined up properly. Every now and then a roll will get punched incorrectly. Also, measure...

That looks very light weight compared to the ones I'm used to seeing.

I agree with Jim. When I was doing a lot of profiles in Flexi for Roland printers, I found myself always increasing magenta by 5 or 10% more than what I would initially think it would be. This gave me good reds out of any Roland printer with Flexi. And as Jim said, if you bump those up...

Have you cut window tint before? It does not handle like vinyl at all. We sell special blades just for window tint. It also needs to be cut unidirectional and any pinch wheels in the middle will leave tracks. You should ask for a sample to test on before either of you commit to this. Good...

I think the key points above are: Use as little heat as possible Use as little pressure as possible and Use as little craft paper as possible. Too much heat will soften the laminate making it easier to wrinkle. Too much pressure will pull the center of the print faster than the outside edges...

It looks like an electrical problem to me. It could be cables, which I would try first, but my guess is that it is most likely the head. Good Luck

On a network without a router, and no other internet connection (wireless or whatever) you don't need DHCP functioning. You can just assign static addresses to every device on the network. Most large format printers that I'm familiar with all use static addresses. Just make sure that you're...

As someone who has replaced many of those, the tool does help. You need one for a 3mm clip. I use the one on the left. I haven't lost a clip yet since getting the tool. If you don't want to buy the tool, you can use a screwdriver for removal and needle nose pliers for putting them on, but...

It's a setting on the plotter itself, but I don't remember what it's called. But it does that to help with tracking. I will see if I can find that setting and get back with you on it. Good luck

Also, look at your humidity. If it's below 30%, static will build up and pull ink out of its intended path. Cyan seems to be the color most affected by static charges. If humidity is low and you can't improve it, printing slower will slow down the buildup of static, hopefully to a level that...

This error is for the magnetic Media clamp sensor. This is behind the sheet cut mechanism. There should be a magnet on the rail that is used to check whether the sensor works or not - make sure it's in the correct place. Check the wire from the sensor to the print carriage board - it connects...

As someone who repairs printers for a living, this is a project that I would discourage you from pursuing. You're going to sink more money into it than you'll be able to get out of even if you can overcome the bent metal and ink leakage. There may be a few parts that you could salvage, but...

Turn it off in back and unplug it for 5 minutes. Then turn it back on. If it doesn't fully turn on, first make sure that your outlet is working, then unplug it again and remove some covers so that you can see the carriage board and the main board and see if there are any LEDs lit on the boards...

New inks, but that's available to the older ones now. Orange and Green inksets - not available on the older models. Edge guides are not removeable, so they won't pop out and damage a printhead. A few programming tweaks that allow it to start printing sooner than the VG. Less ink is wasted for...

One of the issues we saw with TR inks was that they would dry too fast causing nozzle block out or requiring more frequent cleanings. It really wasn't very forgiving to those who didn't practice good regular maintenance. This was great for situations like yours, but caused problems for others...

If you have the latest firmware with TR2 inks, you can do the damper fill without going into the service menu. I believe it's holding down the up arrow while turning on the sub power.

Is the spring in front installed and have you snugged down (just enough to keep the head plate on the carriage plate, not fully tightened) when doing the test prints? Good Luck

ikarasu - turn off the OMAS in your media selection and manually perform the feed adjustment (Settings>Image Quality Maintenance>Substrate Advance Calibration) Do this after you have it connected to the take up if you're using it. Life will be much better. Good Luck

Your cut carriage cable has a short that makes contact at that point. You'll need to replace it. I usually recommend that you replace the cable guides at the same time as they tend to accumulate dust and debris and as a result they don't slide as easily when the carriage moves back and forth...