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Use the highest resolution color profile you have available, slow the motor speed down to the slowest speed (usually a setting in the rip), and make sure your head alignments are perfect. Or have procolorgraphics do it.

They're located in the ink supply box where most of the pumps in the machine are. They are black cylinder like parts and each channel has one for a total of 8. Looks like the picture below:

Anytime a single channel drops like that on this model I check the air pressure system to make sure it's within spec, and then run an air purge. If that doesn't do the trick, everything mentioned above sub tanks etc. That being said, I do see fairly often that people don't change the primary...

It's ok to manually fill the cap top with a syringe and cleaning solution if you need to get it done quick. As for the reason it's not filling, you might have an air lock in the tube. The solution isn't pumped and just uses gravity to fill the cap so if there is an air bubble in there, it can...

And now Fellers just closed shop here in Denver. I know Milano Digital here in town just picked up Arlon if that helps.

The big spring under the cap is M800864. I have some in stock surprisingly. They aren't on the site but if you email us, I can get you a quote. support@solventinkjet.com

Oh gotcha. The way most Rolands work is there is a sensor right behind the pinch rollers that gets tripped when the media ends and allows light in. When the sensor trips, it tells the machine that's where it needs to stop. So when you load a sheet it should roll it out until the sensor trips...

It's ONE thing I like abut Flexi ;)

If it were me I would bring it into illy, copy and paste in front, live trace and play around with the settings until it looks like I want, and then expand and clean up any stray points and use the remaining vector as the cut line. But I'm sure there's an easier way to do it these days. It's...

I agree. Seems to be an uphill battle always.

Does the BN20 have a sheet load option? Most printers I've worked on do so I wouldn't be surprised if it did. The sheet load option should measure exactly what print area is available and send that info to the RIP.

I'd get the original parameters from Mimaki and start from scratch. It sounds like the parameters are messed up. That error is related to a parameter mismatch of some sort and a lot of the time reverting back to the original ones will fix issues.

Make sure your Maintenance Parameter number 0 is set to 0. It sounds like the parameters may be conflicting. They both tell the machine what model it is so maybe one is overriding the other.

Any color profile that isn't made specifically for your printer and environment is going to have results like these. If you make a custom one on your machine, it's much easier to hit grays,

Jim Hancock's back? Sweet! Are you taking referrals?

There is an option in Flexi called, "Output Size Compensation." It prints out a square, you measure it, input the measurement value, and it adjusts all prints from that point on. Also just keep in mind that most roll to roll printers have an error due to the many factors that go into feeding...

You're more likely to find API support in a RIP instead of the printer itself. I believe I heard Onyx is the only RIP working on it at the moment. Edit: Here's a link to Onyx's API page: https://onyxgfx.com/products/onyx-sync/

I have a feeling it's more complicated than it's worth and/or not doable. Probably the easiest way would be to set it up to run SS21 inks and then put SS21 chips on your DTF inks. But in that case you will probably get unexpected printing results since the firmware and parameters are setup for...

Here's a PDF with the JPG embedded in it so now it's vector right? Haha. I'll give it to RapidTac though, that's a pretty good JPG and should print fine at full size. It's ~42"x23" at full resolution.

I can change dampers without flushing the system with very minimal ink spillage but I've also done 1000's. On your machine with the dual channel dampers, a lot of the time you can just do one line at a time and ink won't come flying out. I also use a piece of soft tubing with a knot tied in it...