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There's usually some Russian guy hanging around here who can do it for you for a cost. Have you looked into using the Mutoh CISS?

It's a bit counter intuitive. The error means the printer expected the sub tank to be full by now but it's not. The usual cause is a clogged tube between the ink cartridge and sub tank. It's possible that the sensor or the sub tank itself are malfunctioning but it's usually a clog. It's a messy...

For warranty stuff yeah. There's definitely guys out there who will work on out of warranty though.

It seems to be the way the industry is going when it comes to tech work. Dealers have a hard time keeping a full time tech because often there isn't enough work to justify the full time salary. The only other options after that are to completely rely on the manufacturer techs or contract...

It's not really something that is doable. You'd need to add in an entire UV lamp system, with cooling etc. not to mention making custom firmware to handle it all. The only thing you could easily convert that machine to is Dye Sublimation.

Try using your RL5 license with RL6. The RL5 number is longer so just input as much as it will let you. It's worth a try. When RL6 came out, they allowed free upgrades to 6. It may still work.

Make sure the antifreeze is flowing and not clogged. The antifreeze requires a mixture of distilled water. If anything other than distilled water was used, it could be clogged. Other than that, it may be shorting out. I would check the head cables for ink splatter and/or damage and replace as...

I'd restart the computer and see if the issue goes away. You might just have another instance of the software running in the background that didn't properly terminate. Restarting should fix that.

The black ones are the primary filters. If they get clogged up, it can impede ink flow and cause supply errors etc. They are supposed to be replaced once per year but most people go until they fail.

We're out of stock right now but normally have them. We specifically get the Roland ones for DX4 heads.

Unless you're using your own custom made color profiles, you will get unexpected results like this from time to time. As mentioned above, sometimes sending an RGB black will trick the RIP into using a better CMYK mix for the black. You could also use the color replacement function in your RIP to...

What does the bottom of the head look like? Any head strikes?

Mutoh roll to rolls are solid machines. If you go flatbed I would look at the Mimaki JFX200 or another flatbed. Mutoh's flatbed is a rebrand and I'm never a big fan of that kind of setup. Too many middlemen to go through for tech support.

Sounds like maybe your Y origin sensor is malfunctioning and/or is physically out of place. It's the sensor that tells the machine it's back at the cap tops. Since you seem to be seeing the head not fully make it over the caps, maybe the flag the sensor detects has been knocked out of place or...

If you're using Illustrator, use the "offset path" function. It will create a bleed of whatever size you want.

Heat is usually the culprit but since you've ruled that out, it could be a few things. The most common cause other than heat is skewing material. Make sure you're loading it as straight as possible and that the roll isn't telescoped. Make sure all of the pinch rollers on the media are down. On...

I've been in the sign industry in Denver for the last 15 years or so. A lot of the old timers are retiring I've noticed. A good time to take the reigns!

Are you trying to update the firmware with the Mimaki Firmware Update tool or Rasterlink/User Software? The end user firmware updaters rarely work and that's usually the message you get. Also, some Mimaki dealers aren't servicing dealers so they don't have access to the proper files etc.

Have you tried contacting Mimaki directly yet? You would need to give them the serial number so they can get the proper file but it's worth a shot to ask.