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If they are supplying you a new head because there ink broke your head no way you need a new head that should be 100%. if you are down hard and losing money maybe a feew missing nozzles just to get back up but if you can wait DEMAND a new 100% head. And I had a head that was loosing sections...

As for they are all the same they are just as you stated the front board maynot plug in correctlly this I dont care about I can get around that but I cant get around a cracked mount and a broken nipple.

I put this in the Mimaki forum as that is the brand I have but any solvent based DX5 manifold will do. I need 2 of the black manifolds for the DX5 heads from any brand solvent or eco solvent printer they are all the same. So if you have a bad head please send me a pm I need the manifolds I...

Holy cow just read this this is Bull$#^@! i will never again use 3M I have to say that for wraps I have prefered avery and Oracal but use 3M for alot of color wraps and cut vinyl stuff but now I will not use 3M period. Thanks for the info and if there is going to be anything to sign to go...

do a search for the jv3 manuals they are posted here somewhere you need to do a full alignment moving the head all the way to the left wont fix this it will only cause you more problems the head its self is moved only to correct the angle the dot alignment is all done electronically. Get the...

I am not sure what your problem is but here is an idea maybe the rip has gotten corrupted try uninstalling and reinstalling the rip. Also you say that it does not happen on all prints is it perhaps a set file type that is doing this? or a set file type from one program ie tiff made in...

not sure what your problem is. It maybe an encoder strip problem have you tried to clean it if not try cleaning it but be gentle.

Welcome from Florida!

yes you should be able to push fluid through the head with a syrienge. you have to give it a little pressure but not to much or you will damage the head. Good luck with your new adventure.

I use rasterlink 5 it is for the Mimaki only as it is made by Mimaki. I used Flexi a few years ago its not bad once you get the hang of it and get good profiles. If you design in some other program and just use production manager to rip and print it seems to be a little better speed wise.

Yep that is it. Like I said I have no idea about the abilities but the yellow tool guys are wrap guys and have been doing this stuff for a while and have marketed alot of tools that they have comeup with over the years.

I have bought many things from solvent ink online. There online store is not that great but if you call them George is very nice and usually ships same day (if you order before 4:00 p.m. eastern time).

thats to bad! I dont have to do anything all I did was tell it to use pure C,M,Y,K and then it the cmy=k I told it to use K from 0-255 and its awesome straight black beautiful greys no pink no green and I have even printed 52" X 30' of straight black like 3 panels and it was great and yes that...

Yellowtool makes a drying tube its basically a big flex tube with a fan. You put rolled up print inside seal and turn on fan. I ahve not used one but I understand you can laminate within a few hours doing this. Try fellers and look at there online catalog you can see it but no prices online...

Not to hijack thread but is ther away in flexi to tell it to use just k for the blacks? I can do this in rasterlink and it made a huge difference in all my stuff lettering, shades of greys they all look so much better when printed with just K.

Not sure if you got it fixed or not but try using a syrienge and some of the pump tubing and push flush through the head just dont over do the pressure. I had a JV3 and use to do this all the time for missing nozzles. The key is to put enough pressure to get the fluid to come through the head...

Not sure how i missed that it was a JV3 not a JV33. if you are using a bulk ink system this could be some of the problem. I say this as I had a JV3 that was bulk inked and my cyan would always bleed into the yellow if I did a nozzle soak. if I did it over night sometimes it would bleed all...

yah ink contamination. but it should not be happening on the JV33 based on the design of the ink system and the dampners. if you print a little and it does not clear up right away(as it may just be a little INK under the head that caused it) then you may have a vacuum on your yellow side and...

As for the pump cap thing I dont really see as a JV33 owner how a pump or bad cap would cause the cross contamination problem. The reason I say this is because the JV33 has a single cap so if the dampners and line locks are not working right you would get cross contamination on all the colors...

Are you running 4 color mode? if so are both cyans printing green if both are printing green sounds like a possible rip/electrical problem. If only one of the cyans are printing green then I would say either A. the dampner manifold(the black plastic top) is cracked or from experience the...