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This is the screen in the service menu

Which number 1-10 is used for 256 inks? My white inks are Nazdar 256 while everything else is 257 but I can't get the Nazdar supplied RFID stickers to work.

I am going to be doing a printhead replacement (first time, wish me luck) I have a service key and the instructions for that part but not for draining the coolant. Anybody have a service manual they want to copy that section for me, or describe the process?

As a means of troubleshooting I have been bleeding air every morning. Since then I have not had the head go out completely, I just struggle with more ordinary groups of missing nozzles that I can eventually recover. Might be multiple things going on, perhaps air in the line + old print heads...

It might be .25" tubing, not sure, but I also know that the ink will degrade many types of plastic. I will see if I can get more info on that.

I need that small section of hose with the fittings that comes off the filter and is used to bleed air on the Arizona 2280. I am seeing vendors like Digiprint Supplies selling tubing but they don't list he 2200 series specifically in their specs. Any pointers appreciated.

There is ink on the nozzle plates, in fact I can get a good looking purge. Which I think rules out the nozzles being clogged.

So we might get a tech out here to run through this but I would like to have a sense if improper vacuum values are the only (or even main) thing that could result in our problem. Is this the ONE THING we should be focused on in our troubleshooting?

Sounds like this requires a specific piece of equipment and a service key? If the meniscus vacuum is the reason the head drops out, what are you expecting to see with the gauge, or if the screen is accurate what values would you expect?

Can't find any leaks. Meniscus pressure seems to be between 15.2-18.4. It was 18.4 when I came in this morning and went as low as 15.2 when a purge was done. Right now it seems to be maintaining around 16.2

Yes, Arizona 2280

We have a problem where we can do a purge on the white heads and see a nice even flow of ink come off all heads into the tray but when we run a nozzle test an entire head might not be firing. And then with some cleaning work, printing white swatches, etc we will eventually get it back. We have...

For the record I am not saying anything negative toward lipla white ink, I don't have the experience to compare it to anything at this point and I know white is a problem across the board. Happy to report back if I change though.

We are the second owner of the machine and never ran OEM white in the machine, only LIPLA. We are using 257 for our color inks. I have grown accustomed to bleeding the air from the filters and it does help but we still have problems like most people.

The Lipla bulk tank for white includes a stirring mechanism, and we use white with every job since we are printing on clear plastic + we are meticulous about head cleaning. Nazdar's experience does make them a logical next step if we move on. I would probably pour the ink from the bag into our...

I understand white ink is always the most problematic but are any of these clear winners when it comes to reducing nozzle clogs on an ongoing basis? We are running a Arizona 2280 and using Lipla for the white currently and have been given the expectation that it should be the least prone to...

I hadn't noticed this. . . thanks!

Understood. But I only want to bleed printhead 14 and 15, not 0 and 1. Its not clear to me which filter is for which side.

On the 2280 with 4 white printheads I am having some consistent dropout and want to bleed the air from the heads closest to the yellow (w14 specifically). Which white valve routes to that side of the printer?

Lenticular prints. I guess I need to see if Onyx is actually rounding the number they list mechanically or just in how they list it.