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If the line in the pictures is along the width of the laminator I'm inclined to agree a flat spot or even a warped roller if it's constant. If it works fine with 4 mil and not 3 mil maybe that 1 extra mil is just enough to make better contact with that flat/warped spot on the roller. Have you...

Any update on this? Have you noticed better color consistency and/or reprint color consistency? Thanks.

I was told (from an Oracal wrap class I believe) to not wrap any rubber because most synthetic rubbers are petroleum based which degrades the adhesive and will quickly fail.

Thanks for the recommendations on Clean Cut blades. I didn't mind paying a little extra for Summa blades over aftermarket, but I'm not going to pay them $40 per damn blade plus the $12 UPS fee on a, what, 1.5 ounce item?

I'm looking for a Summa S1 series screen that isn't shattered like mine.. If you have an out of service S1 series with a perfectly good screen just sitting around, please let me know.

I do regularly on my 360.

That's an interesting confidential memo. Would be nice if they let us in on the secret 3 freaking years ago...

lol, I hear ya. It looked just fine when you stood back far enough to see the entire image (15-20 ft), but up close....oof. Pretty much, yeah. Didn't stretch in the least, just peeled away...

We've definitely had this issue with our 360. Have to be very careful when wrapping near a section already completed (side print of vehicle overlapping the hood or bumper then trimming and removing). Pulls away especially easily when pulling up trimmed section that's already tacked down like...

It reads as if it's gone through Google Translator from English to Hindi then back to English then reposted...

Yeah, printing is a good option. Or, if you can't print it yourself, Fellers sells a printed carbon fiber pattern on 3M IJ180. A bit on the pricey side..

RTape 4075RLA (Release Liner Adhesion) and it doesn't stick to air egress backing. At all. But I still use it, it is high tack so it sticks to matte and satin well enough if you resqueegee it just before install.

It's almost certainly the material, not sure why it would be fine one day and not the next. Maybe the banners yesterday were lighter and it wasn't as noticeable? Cleaning the surface before printing with isopropyl alcohol will clear it up, but it's a huge pain. If it's newer stock (to me) I...

Plasticizors coming to the surface of the banner material, usually means old stock. Did you print on the same roll as yesterday?

Thanks for your replies, but I mean when I save it as a native .cdr it changes it from CutContour to 100% Magenta.

It's happened a few times in the past, but now every file I save that has a CutCountour out line has that outline converted to 100% Magenta. It saves just fine if I use any other spot color (Pantone, Summa Spot, etc) but not with the custom spot. It's not a huge deal since Onyx now warns you...

These aren't the same as safety razor blades, these are much thicker and work much better in the type of cutter he's using (I've used safety razor blades in a pinch when I'm out of my normal ones). Martor blades are what I use, specifically these ones although there are thicker or thinner...

Like Chasez and others have said, every window film manufacturer has some sort of film-to-glass chart/formula that you need to consult to make sure the film you're installing won't cause a thermal fracture in the glass. Llumar's chart, for example, takes into account: window type (single pane...

I seem to start having problems around 10 months, sometimes less, sometimes more. Just depends on how long it sat in the suppliers warehouse.

Vinyl banner material does, yes. From what I've read it's the plasticizers coming to the surface of the film and interfering with the ink adhesion. You can clean the material off with isopropyl alcohol before you print, but that's a huge pain and you'll probably have spots that you miss and...