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When you feed the vinyl, is it cut perfectly straight at 90 degrees to the 'long' side and fed in straight? A warped cut can do this as it will grab at slightly different times and will buckle further down the roll.

We had the same issues with a particular roll of media where the core was too slippery for the grippers on the roll holder, and got initialization errors every single time. We managed to get the 'bad' roll working by lightly taping some cardboard over the grippers so they would push harder...

If you can't get hold of a spare ribbon, swap them between the 2 heads and see if the problem follows or not.

Fuji Acuity LED 3200R should be around USD$50k new (they are currently AUD$70k) and give up to 128" of print width and are aimed at the banner/exhibition market. https://www.fujifilminkjet.com/acuity-led-3200r/

White on a BN20 (or most solvents) isn't very opaque. You'd need to strike it several times, and since the BN20 is already glacially slow, it would be quite a painful task. Maintenance when setup for white is also extremely frequent... daily from memory. It clogs the heads very quickly and needs...

Turn heat down or use better vinyl would be my first suggestions, but as netsol asks... what have you tried so far?

You could try Orafol 215DU. Special layer of adhesive to get into the texture of UV prints and prevent silvering: https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oraguard-215du

Spec sheet says maximum width for rigid media is 98.4" so I would say so. Our 360GT (metric) goes to 2500mm which is also 98.4". You may only have the 96" ruler printed onto the bed, but it should still print out to the full 98.4". Easy way to test, put a piece of masking tape over the ruler and...

What code is it displaying out of curiousity?

The closest you're going to get to the PRO4100 is the Epson S80600, however the selection of paper types you can print on with a solvent is about 2% of what's available for aqueous.

What Graphtec are you running? We barely leave an inch leader and it works fine with Onyx with our 8600.

Thanks for clearing it up... we have a welder, so never used the stitching method before. Was trying to parrot what I'd read on here a while back.

https://www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines These sail sewing machines have been mentioned several times in the past. Walking foot and I think dual stitch models available.

Pendant outlets hanging from chain from the roof or ducting on the floor:

How is your RIP machine connected to the printer? I would check all cabling first, and if any network switches in between, give them a reboot or swap them out temporarily with a known working one for testing purposes.

Something like Alumigraphics should work, but the cutting will have to be by hand as it it metal backed.

This happened on our VS540 years ago. Ended up being a ruptured damper. Unfortunately for us it was an expensive fix, as it happened on the metallic channel and it went all over the PCB of the head and fried it. Otherwise, dampers are cheap to replace if that's the case for you.

Yeah, that's really weird... the manual you supplied is the only place I can see mention of LcLm being options... no other spec sheets say it's possible. The closest I can find is CM2 mode, but that just uses additional Cyan/Magenta channels to speed things up a bit.

PC Load Lettter? WTF does that mean?!@!