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I appreciate the response, but that guide tells how to add bleed/marks onto a graphic. A great resource for anybody that needs a refresh or is new to printing, though!

Hi All! I'm running Onyx postershop 12. When printing banners, I know how to put bleed and grommet marks for a hem. However, my boss is adamant that there's a way to put text in the bleed (so we can put our name and number in there). I had yet to find a way to do this. I know about print marks...

i know a few other people mentioned....but the unibit or stepbit works wonders. cuts through like butter. NEVER cracked on me. No need to use two pieces or tape or anything - it drills through as if you're drilling pvc.

Unfortunately I do not have one on hand. The current ink is only a month old or so with a warranty until July 2020. I just created a case with HP support after so many people said it looks like an ink issue, so hopefully that will deliver some results. Thanks for the quick response!

I'm worried I may have the same issue. At first i thought maybe it was a damaged head or bidi calibration out of whack as any text/bidi lines were blurry, but the jet mapping shows all nozzles firing fully. However, the prime bar looks like crap. Can anyone suggest if this is a bad batch of ink...

I had figured it was a medium vs high tack. We use the scps-55 for printed graphics, but hadn't considered the 53 for dusted/frosted. I do use the laminator to apply large sections of transfer tape as well. Thanks for the tip!

Yikes!...somebody messed up big somewhere along the line. At least you were able to get it to work with a shim! This is also why I always measure everything possible instead of just one side or relying on technology (spike)...human error is far too present.

I would love to hear any tips here too. When we use 3M dusted crystal/etched, we use R-Tape to transfer and it lets go easily from the vinyl - the bond between the vinyl/backing paper is stronger than tape/vinyl. I thought it was a cutting pressure at first too, but I've experimented with...

We HAVE seen that! It was off by about an inch and noticeable once we took the signface out...had to cut a trapezoid in the new polycarbonate - I chalk it up to the old handmade boxes.

That's actually an excellent idea I hadn't considered - I'll give this a shot and see what happens. Thanks!

Ah! I'll take a look for this setting and see what I can do. This will help for future instances, but I would still like to figure out why the 40C is doing what it is. I contacted my sales rep and 3M rep, both of which said they've never seen it before. The issues came from two different rolls -...

I had tried this in the past, but noticed that the translucent and clear have different levels of tolerance when coming off a latex printer - over a 12' run i've noticed almost a 1/4" of a difference in sizing. When aligning letters or images that have no ink next to them, this becomes visible...no?

The 3M 40 is an air egress vinyl, so we never do it wet. It makes the installation super easy. I had considered that a small air pocket grew over time, but this happened on various substrates. I'd be hardpressed to believe that I'm failing to clean/miss air bubbles that often. I suppose it is...

I've read a bunch of threads about creating outdoor light boxes. Some people swear by translucent vinyl, some by dual layer (either both first surface or one first and one second), there's multiple theories. I've personally found that translucent tends to be washed out at night (or super dark...

I have been on Corebridge for a few years now, but pricing is different as I am part of a national franchise. The storage add-on is for large files and documents that you can store on the server specific to a given job. For instance, you can upload EPS files, AI files, scanned jpegs, relevant...

I don't use the 2 handed heat gun roller, so my installation method is slightly different. With 480, I actually peel the entire sheet and use a paper towel to "squeegie" everything down. This basically holds it in place until you go back with a torch/heat gun and roll everything out with a soft...

I know I'm a bit late here, but I spent a lot of time with an HP tech on my FB550. He mentioned one of the biggest culprits to ink adhesion isn't always the substrate, but the age of the ink. If the machine was sitting for a few months, the inks could have been past their expiration date. The...

For the most part Dan360 is spot on. Use 3M's 480mC, but the laminate is just as important. Definitely go with the 8548G that is recommended with it. We do painted block walls all the time, including inside our own building. Go very slow, about 3"/second, with your heat and overlap just as you...

We use 480MC all day long on brick, cinderblock, floors, vehicle wraps (duh) really anything. It has been the most versatile vinyl we've come across. We use it on our hp 360 latex, but I'd imagine there's virtually no difference in the SV (solvent) version.

Check your ink supply - there are sediments in the ink boxes that can sometimes settle in the bottom of the box causing different pigments to flow through the lines. My HP tech suggested shaking the boxes a bit every morning (not nearly as much as when you first install an ink) just to mix it up...