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RIP speeds on x21 versus x12.2 are ridiculous. Multi label jobs that were previously 6 minute RIPs are now done in 20 seconds. Saves us a tonne of time when we need to tweak a setting and re-RIP.
Pauly is right.
Océ documentation regarding this is located here:
https://dgs.cpp.canon/PrinterSupport/Arizona_250GT_Customer/Documents/App48B_IJC25X_Ink_Conversion.pdf
Not exactly sure how the 1280 screen looks (we have a 360), but if you go into the Tools & Utilities screen, there should be some flush options available in there.
You'll need a flush kit from Oce (bag of ink full of flush) and some filters.
You can use the PosterShop dongle with the ProductionHouse install... I've been doing it for 3 years. It just adjusts the usable features to whatever the licence allows for.
Here's the 12.2 installer:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/28mfnodupvmxiir/Onyx%20ProductionHouse%2012.2.0.exe?dl=0
Have you actually tried doing a print?
The previews in Onyx are not colour accurate, and are only a quick render of the file. The actual print should use the correct profile and be accurate.
Just sent a few large files to our Canon 6000 and same issue... ~80Mbps average. I think it could be an Onyx thing rather than network. Every single device here is 1G, 2.5G or 10G.
Next job for the Epson I'll pay some more attention and report back.
Onyx sends the data directly to the Arizona over port TCP port 9100 which is common for most network printers.
It doesn't transfer via a network share (SMB/NFS).
Are you using CMYK or RGB reds?
We get faaaaaar better output with RGB reds. We design nearly everything in RGB these days as the S80600 can print much wider than CMYK gamut.
You can also install the Epson wide gamut profile called EpsonWideCMYK_Ver2.icc which can help printing difficult CMYK...
100mbps is only ~10 megabytes per second... hard discs have not been that slow for probably 25+ years.
That being said, we upgraded the HDD in our Arizona to a 10,000rpm WD Raptor drive and we get the same results as Pauly.
I think it's probably Windows XP being the bottleneck, and whilst it...
It hasn't been too difficult on the ones we've done. It's usually a 1/2" nut which sometimes needs a bit of WD40 to shake loose. The arm usually pulls off perpendicular to the window and can need some persuasion occasionally.
We remove the wiper arm and cut a small cross into the perf approximately where the spline sticks out of the window. Lay the entire window, then clean up the part surrounding the spline last. Replace the arm once complete.
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