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Here's a PDF instruction how to do a head soak (found after some googling): http://files.dencosales.com/TechTips/Roland%20XC,%20XJ%20Head%20Soak.pdf (if I'm not allowed to post the link please remove it)

Why is the tech changing components like underwear when the test print is missing that many nozzles?? Like jhilldesigns said, try a head soak first. You do have the feed calibration checked of course, or?

Take a look att globalgarage.net, they have some used flatbeds and if you shoot them an e-mail they could guide you right perhaps?

I guess these printers works the same way as the other Designjets, e.g. the printer pressurizes the carts to get ink out. When they are empty they have a lot of air in them and are therefore more swollen. If you look at the edge of the cart that goes in the printer there's one valve for ink and...

That sounds too small to cut with any plotter. Maybe one with a tangential head but with a drag knife... don't even try...

If you rotate the picture 180 degrees and print the bottom first, is the fade on the same part of the image or does it move?

And that's where the small piece of scrap vinyl comes in handy...

#2: When the felt edge wears out on the edges of the squeegee, suddently giving you a sticky stripe of goo on the vinyl you're applying... Takes a lot of cleaner and elbow grease to get that off... =P

+1 Only when I notice a difference in output or if something is wrong... The regular cleaning is of course a routine.

According to the Roland site(s) VW is free when you buy a printer (or included in the price), but that is when you buy a NEW printer. You get only one copy per printer, so the TS should have asked the seller about it when he bought the machine. VW itself is not a free program.

Better hope the sign on pic no. 3 is made with good materials...

Great machines, especially with the "UV"-inks (not the dye). It's not THAT slow and great quality! If you find it affordable and in good condition it could be a good buy. I've used the PS version years ago and it worked really well, lacking a lot of settings from a separate RIP though, but it...

The poster you've looked at is probably offset printed since they are made in large volumes. These SP machines will show a little dot placement if looked closely, and I think that's the tradeoff for ink longetivity. However, if you've managed to get some prints to look good and some that don't...

+1 You know the Roland ones work, they fit directly and they don't break suddently one evening when you are in the middle of a bigger print run...

Have you seen other prints from an SP-V printer so you know for sure there's something wrong with your machine? These are eco-solvent machines with relatively large drop size. You can't compare it to a desktop photo printer for example... Your nozzle test looks great btw so you definitely don't...

You don't have the head height set to "high" by any chance?

Tried Sign&Display setting in VW? Or MAX Impact? Is it the same problem then also?

YouTube link of the video perhaps?

If it's the same cartridge design as the newer Roland:s you could just tape in the tab on the cartridge. The tab pops out when the cartridge is empty, telling the printer it needs replacing. If you tape in the tab on the cartridge it will read as full, or am I totally wrong?

Have the exact same issue with a SP-300V, prints fuzzy black. My test print looks almost the same, maybe a tad worse. I've tried one head soak and it seemed to get better, but it also seems to get a bit better the more I print, as tomence said. So I keep running the prints where the fuzzyness...