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There is no alternative for the thin, opaque and stretchable latex white... The early HP 700/800 are a Royal PITA... I know, I service them. Have the enhancement kit installed and give it a chance.

Optimizer head

Officially, you shouldn't need to adjust the capping position. There is a jig/tool to mount the cap mechanism correctly, but I have never used or seen it. It could also be the plastic part right of the cap, where it gets pushed by the head bracket. I would definitely check the capping...

Are you using original ink/parts? Sounds like the captop isn't making a good seal.

Nozzle test and printing direction would be helpful. One looks like bad adjustment or carriage crash, the other like printhead needs replacement.

I had cases with crystallisation of the yellow ink. In this case I flushed the yellow ink line with cleaning solution, replaced the yellow cartridge and replaced the damper.

I use a tooth brush with alcohol, where I shortened the bristlesl. Don't use a metal brush, as it will destroy the micro sprockets on the rollers. Take care not to spray alcohol into the bearing blocks. 36deg. Is standard for Summa/HP cutters. Offset is 0.43. RTFM as well...

The Opos sensor is only lowered onto the medium during mark recognition.

The pinch roller sensor.

I had a case with a Roland, where the white plastic wheel right of the solenoid had a crack. This is a possibility in a oldtimer...

The zip ties are only needed, when someone breaks of the original mechanism

This sounds like the (optical) sensor is interrupted. I've seen it before. The head moves to the right, until it "bumps" into the home position. Then it starts moving to the left, waiting for the sensor to be interrupted by the pinch roller holders. If it's already interrupted at the home...

Do a "fill damper" on this head. If the problem comes back, the damper probably needs replacement. (There are different generations of dampers)

There are 2 head related fuses on the mainboard. There are more on other boards and power supplies.

Does the head move the blade down, at the end of the init. process with media inserted? If not, it's the solenoid, flat cable or the mainboard.

The heads aren't the problem. It's the tubing. The solvent permeates through the tubing. The Eco2 ink is the best for a long head life. (Max1 ink tends to give misfiring nozzles in black after 2 years or so...)

On a VG with actual Firmware, you can do a "Fill Damper" press and hold Pause and Enter, while switching on. Sucking with syringes and soaking can have negative effects. Let it be. The dampers are actively filled by pumps. It's not like the old Rolands with Epson heads.

Check the internal date of the printer.

For DX4 heads, i'd replace the captops every 12 months.(DX7 sooner) Not dirt is the problem, it's deformation of the rubber lip.

I have seen it happen with 3rd party ink at a customer. There it was Cyan.