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i use mister AND spoilboard vacuum hold down, no gasket, however there is noticeable expansion of the table surface when large deposits of oil puddle on the table.... but a quick resurface and its always been good-to-go. but oil puddles are rare, as with the misting system you're not putting...

vortex air is the bare-minimum, but you'll still have to feather your feeds & speeds as metal/metal friction quickly overcomes the cooling effect of expanding air. never hurts to start "cheap" and learn your lesson/workarounds BUT if you go with a coolant/mist system then you'll never regret it...

those signs are best installed with VHB tape plus !00% silicone adhesive combination. edited to add: you can install ADA signage on glass partitions. still serves its wayfinding purpose, is still within acceptable distance from latch-side of door, and there's no difference between a glass panel...

shopped the hell outta these application tables before taking the plunge after 2-3 sign expo's.... CWT is, in my opinion, the absolute best. RollsRoller comes in a close-2nd, rightfully-so as they actually shared the same engineer that designed their products, and you'll definitely be happy...

wishful thinking I'll sell you my 26500 for that, even have a mimaki jv3 i'd let-go for ~$1k, but best I can see anywhere are 360's in the $7-9k range....used 365's selling for $11k+ and new ones at $14k.

barf. economics 101. install is usually cheaper than removal plus install, as noted by the common law of mathematics: A < A + B ....technically the guy saved an "awful lotta money" by combining removal & install into one trip.

yes, you can use black vinyl on illuminated white background... bout as simple as an illuminated sign gets :) printing black would have the same effect, but if you're trying to do it in a single print-layer I would dial-up the ink density to the max....as your typical print isn't 100% opaque and...

rabble rabble.....outer glow. empathy goes both ways. take a moment to realize what triggered an initial reaction, and where it came from, and take another moment to consider your response....as to not continue the back/forth of it all into hysteria. its what all the cool people do nowadays...

3rd party inks aren't in business because they ruin printheads.... else they wouldn't have customers for long. Bordeaux has been a trusted brand for over a decade. OEM inks want to scare you into thinking that their price-point is for peace of mind.

its just steel....standard black/gold hss bits with wd 40 spritz's to keep from welding the bit to the corten. cleaning thoroughly afterwards so you don't get hotspots in the rust from randomly introducing oil to the surface.

we make TONS of corten monument signs, adhering letters is silly for this purpose as stated above. Oxidizes fast and would definitely inhibit longevity of adhesion. +1 to securing mechanical fasteners, especially of dissimilar metals, in a gob of silicone as a "gasket" and you should be fine...

+1 to 3rd party inks being viable option. switched my jv3's ss21 inks to bordeaux a loooong time ago, and ran it for a solid 5 years before decomissioning the printer for latex upgrade. no noticeable wear on the printer/printheads, but a slightly obnoxious solvent-odor was the drawback...

if i want to add longevity to any chrome/gold/specialefx vinyl I intend to throw outdoors....I'll laminate with a cast gloss vinyl. it still won't make it last forever, BUT i have plenty of gold/chrome graphics that still look brand-new after 3yrs outdoors and the original longevity of the vinyl...

printing with black-only is certainly an option, but I'm a HUGE fan of applying a custom CMYK profile in photoshop for greyscale images, and set the Black Generation in the GCR to either Medium or High Density or Maximum Density. Anything and everything I throw thru it in a hurry, and just run...

kindly respond that you are not in the business for putting up your liability insurance for someone else's install. they ordered a banner, you provided it, and they can't add terms to a past due invoice. (also remind them of your policy of adding $20 for each month of past-due invoices, and $200...

extremely doubtful. any clear vinyl that would have adhesive suitable for a brick application.... would be so "not-clear" by the time you applied it that you wouldn't see the brick anyways.

i do my zero-overlap seams on the wall. double-layer of painter's tape pre-laid down the middle (faux-cutting strip, protects the wall) apply both tiles utilizing overlap to align, and then a single-cut through both of the layers with a fresh knife blade & straightedge. peel-open/apart, remove...

coro-cutter & shear

when was the wall painted prior to your installation? what kind of paint? got pics? chances are....as in most cases of these types of failures, is that either the paint hadn't fully dried yet or they used a paint with a silicone additive for "stain resistance" which pretty much repells...

what's that last wire run-to? did the sign guys plan a zip-line escape bank robbery during the install?