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This is the only way we profile. We get better gamut from using the i1Profiler software then importing the .icm file into the Onyx media profile during the last page of setup.

Care to share the file you're having issues with? Or at least clip out the part that's not printing correctly.

User has been removed. Every single post is attempting to gain work without a merchant account.

If it's the same as the 80600, you can't get to this piece from the front. I'll take a photo tomorrow and give you an idea on how to get in from the top. If you don't hear back, just send me a PM on here and it'll remind me.

Okay thanks for the additional info. For the first issue, there is an absolutely tiny piece of plastic which the printer uses to determine if the latch is closed or not. It's like a $1 part, but rather difficult to get to (entire control panel needs to come out). We've replaced one after the...

Are we looking at the same photo here? It's asking you to perform maintenance on the white tank, which involves removing the tank, shaking for 10-15 secs and re-installing. Have you actually done that part yet? Your post doesn't seem to indicate.

Same as Canuck... using RGB 0/0/0 gets us absolutely perfect blacks, no colour cast, nice and solid. As for reds, never tried to match the cola colour before, but RGB 255/0/0 gives us an amazing red.

You would also need to convert it to UV ink that is curable at the LED wavelength. Someone has done this for around USD$10k on an Oce Arizona so it's definitely possible to do. (GregK or V.V. on this forum maybe) Whether it's worth it is another argument altogether.

"CS-SignSupply-TT was last seen: May 28, 2014" Not to say they aren't in business, but not expecting much of a reply if they haven't visited the site in 5 years.

With print and cut you need to ensure that there is enough room on either side for the cutter calibration marks. For us that means only designing ~50" wide on a 54" roll. Are you leaving enough room either side for those?

Locking thread due to pointless replies. Original poster hasn't been on the forums for nearly 3 years. They are welcome to open a new thread if they return.

Just finished our busiest November in 15 years. December might be coming in 2nd place to it, but still far more work than normal.

Something along the lines of one of these should help: https://www.rtmediasolutions.com.au/product/ir-heater-2000w/

We cut with a Graphtec. Zero issues. Accurate and clean cuts every time.. even after 2.5 years.

Bly owns UV, latex, solvent and now UV-gel. I'm sure there's less bias when you actually own all of the various machines and use them daily.

Depends on the vinyl you're printing onto. We print a lot of labels onto budget monomeric so usually let those dry for 48-72 hours before cutting and don't get any curling at all.

Interesting that you point out your experiences and people disagree. You actually own a latex machine (although probably not for much longer after the new machine is tuned in) so you know first hand what the deal is.

Depending on how accurate you need your colors to be, you'd probably need to make a profile for that particular white paint also.

I stand corrected on this one. I was basing the figures on our old Roland when we had white solvent. We never ordered white for our S80600 as we now have a UV that does the job way faster.

You don't need white for this. Just use the canvas as your base point for white. Also, printing white on a solvent machine makes it print slooooooooowly. Like 10% normal speed. None of our artists have ever complained about the white point, and we've turned out so many canvases I've lost count...