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was going to chime-in, that its definitely matchplate-mounted BUT doubtful that the sign was raised..... that extention was most likely the center of the structure of the sign cabinet itself and whomever removed the sign just carved everything away from it. not knowing what the footing is that...

the "raceway" in the picture you posted....is just a box. an aluminum pan, that caps onto either another aluminum pan or some aluminum angle mounted to the wall.

you can pretty much build them the same way they come as extruded, see any manufacturer's documentation of the profile as an example.... extruded just saves you labor & is structurally-sound to hold the weight of itself, and the lettering, and the power/wiring, while you have the service cap...

previous posts show its a 26500 as the error message states, check the switches. my money is on, as stated above, one of the two breaker switches on the back of the machine being flipped/tripped

if you can afford the 63", just go for it. Even if you're not handling 60" media just yet, you might someday and wish you had it. ...like me :) I've run the same 54" Seal laminator, with heat assist, happily without issue for 15yrs now.

if your 4th printhead is just cycling cleaning solution, then hell yeah you can always use it to replace a bad printhead in the system. they're all the same, BUT printhead replacement is a whole 'nother beast that I can walk you through or at least find the documentation that I used myself at...

solid looking machine tho, carriage looks clean & wiring looks in order. capping station is clean too. only place i could see where the cross contamination coming from would be either the wiper blade or you could also have some gooey bits built-up around the printheads themselves. i gotta put...

regarding cross-contamination, that black wiper-compartment might be a good start... ink build-up is normal, but when its starts getting gooey in there, it will transfer back to the printheads. What you see in the photo isn't the worst part, its right up under the top of the black housing that...

hah, i think i know exactly whom you're talking about. :) so you're most likely rocking a mimaki jv3 160sp or similiar. right up my alley. ink contamination would be result of a dirty wiper blade & or capping station, unless there was some crazy stuff going on like swapping dampers. can you...

CadTools by HotDoor been a timesaver for us for 20years now. sure, a few lines with a dimension attached can be hand-drawn and scale can be math'd out with a calculator BUT seriously just try it out & thank me later. scales & dimension labels aside, this thing has TONS of useful tricks. One of...

I sheet-laminate square/flat window perf for storefronts BUT I spray-laminate perf graphics for car windows....looks wayyyy better & easier to work with, imho.

always willing to accept money, BUT I might have zero experience with your machine, i think....still uncertain what it is aside from a mimaki. always willing to brainstorm issues for free on this forum, however. besides, keeping the thread updated is helpful since others may be able to...

media thickness only has two settings high for thick and low for regular media. ....and i pretty much ran it fulltime on high without issue. it actually helped reduce headstriking on most media and the quality reduction was almost nonexistent. also, if youre nozzle check isn't firing close to...

empty ink cartridge? what mimaki model? what specifically happened leading up to the issue? post pics of nozzle check and condition of your printhead carriage & capping station and i'm sure there will be some ideas when we have somethign to work with.

never too late to pitch plexiglass dividers in your area, for coronavirus considerations upon reopening. a lot of businesses in the service industry (nail salons, retail, reception areas) will be in need of 1/4" self-standing "spit shields" as most convenient places to order online are out of...

-super glue is awful. should only be used to fix acrylic, misc. plastic & ceramic pieces that fit perfectly/flat together. If epoxy was the cucumber, then superglue is cucumber water. :) re-adhering vinyl, however: -spray 77 is nice, but can be messy since you have to spray an aerosol can...

greetings from Racine, WI. :welcome::signs101smilie: I've still got my jv3-160 in storage.... and plenty of threads on this forum related to your issue. you need to run "Printhead Alignment" procedures, for both bi-directional and uni-directional, if your having registration issues unrelated...

been using 3M IJ35 or 40c, mostly. BUT my new favorite intermediate-economy air egress vinyl is Grimco's Briteline 3201X.

low voc paint... a simple google will reveal that you should wait 6-8weeks before you'll see proper adhesion. any earlier, either the vinyl won't stick or your masking tape will peel-up large scabs of the wall paint. buzkill, i know. but that's just how its gotta be. (higher temps and airflow...

pretty straight forward here, would be different if if was in the air and you would have to adjust install time for access via ladders/lift. vinyl plus install plus travel plus room for error & profit.