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spoiler alert, hotels in the midwest are $100/night. roach motels are closer to $50, or $15/hr.

the machine will run with the old head rank id numbers, but the purpose of them is to fine-tune their function as tested by the manufacturer. (i think) uncertain exactly of the downsides, but I've run a few new heads in my lifetime with old rank ids because I had accidentally installed them...

+1 IJ35 is calendared, and "garbage".....by the standards of 3M media. but its my go-to for flat signage that is only expected to last ~5yrs. still think this is a loaded question for a sign forum, and slightly unhelpful considering your supplier or media availability might be different than...

little giant/gorilla/etc. ladders & scaffold plank span'd between them

I've heard Primer94 helps, but only from posts on this forum with no follow-up so I can't reference/vouch for its longevity. I assume it would work as a chemical-version of corona-treating (flaming) a surface, but that stuff can be a mess to brush/dab.

its been hashed out here before, a few times, powder coat needs to be treated like a LSE plastic. Arlon DPF8000 would be my recommendation. edited to add the description of powder coating, if anyone is interested in the what&why

you're gonna damage the building either way: simply tape & silicone to building, or drilling holes for mounting hardware. got a pic to work with, or maybe additional details like brick & mortar or aluminum siding or whatnot? otherwise, +1 MBS-standoffs for a great reference to the kind of...

multicolor screen printing is all about the setup. design software that allows you to work in layers is extremely helpful. youtubes available detailing the steps.

+1 VHB Tape & silicone, with backer vinyl/painted alum/acrylic on reverse-side of the glass to "hide the mess". some people just use standard black/white vinyl, but I prefer to use the matching color of the sign....painted vinyl if need-be. We inline the backer by about 1/8", as to not see it...

as stated above, yes to transparent vinyl like oracal 8300. transluscent vinyl, however, is intended for backlit translucence & may as well be an opaque vinyl on reflective. huge fan of printing directly to the reflective, else you could also print on clear and overlay.

+1. brain fart'd in my comment. by "leaning towards" cyan & magenta, I should have been commenting its lack of yellow/black. if the printhead was "bad", it would be in the black/yellow. but as other suggested, your linearization/profile could account for that as well.

+1 to what bill said. plus the offset gives the content a slightly-embossed effect which looks really cool up close.

trolling these forums for years, and I've seen more praises from mimaki users and more headaches from roland users. however, somehow roland's presence is greater on this continent so consumables/service&parts may be more readily accessible.

if you're in a pinch, and already have the bright yellow vinyl handy, you could always laminate the yellow onto a white vinyl before cutting to make it more opaque. seems odd, however, as I always thought the 50 series was opaque enough to lay yellow onto black to begin-with. I don't have any...

purple tint means your leaning more towards cyan and magenta to make your rich blacks & greys. what's your test print look like? is your profile a standard one, or did you create/modify it yourself? i know it sounds expensive, but if you're at a loss for ideas then replacing all the...

love netsol's explanation. huge +1. I only changed the dampers when I needed to replace printheads....so maybe each damper saw 1-2 replacements in 10years. I feel like I never NEEDED to change the dampers, but figured while I was replacing a $500+ printhead that I would replace the $10 damper...

i've been making my own woodgrain for years.... super easy with youtubes available, but pretty much just make a buncha noise, gausian blur, motion blur and then swirl it around a bit. +1 shutterstock images, otherwise, if looking to just download something. cgtextures has also been a solid...

not an outgassing issue, not an optimizer issue. those "canned" profiles are great, and work as designed. reason being the prints are dry once they come out of the printer (tech may have just been mistaken, being used to telling people to outgas solvents in solvent printers) and optimizers go...

can you clarify what you meant by cap tops/housing on from new? do you mean the capping station where the printheads park & cycle ink? ink pumps would be unrelated to anything except loss of ink supply, or a puddle of ink beneath your printer, as they're behind & below anything that would be...

to the first question, yes. you can purchase double sided mounting adhesive on a roll. to the "in a jam" situation, removing vinyl & reinstalling it at another location.... best of luck. I don't believe that will help you, as your vinyl adhesive is full of crap and adding more adhesive to it...