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studs can be attached many ways, drill&tap/drill&epoxy/stud weld. we do it all, depending on the situation or if stand-off is desired. Grew up in the biz marking targets on a pattern by hand, transferring to backside of letter, & drill-pressing but now our stud targets are manually-placed in...

same issue with many vinyls, colored/reflective/exotic finishes.... i just place a frame of tape around the perimeter and redraw the registration marks by-hand with a fine tip sharpie or a black ballpoint pen.

everything is designed in scale. check out hotdoor cadtools plugin for illustrator, super easy scaled drawing toolset if you prefer to not have to do the math everytime.

did it say if it required an SE or a PE stamp? I'd imagine most engineers have a flat rate for quick-glance approvals like this. We have a guy in illinois, but only most recently needed an SE stamp for a DesPlaines Theater Marquee we just revamped.

just do the ghostbusters logo, but with a spikey cartoon coronavirus.

adhesive-to-fabric you could just get a high-tack vinyl like arlon8000 or similiar vinyls for LSE plastics. has a gooey adhesive that grabs stuff really well. Although the best option would still be Avery Tshirt printable transfers, or similiar tshirt heat transfer media, with a...

vectored file, black-only output, uni directional, gloss laminate (if applicable)

not cleaning the wiper regularly could be what's causing your issue. ink builds up on it, and eventually loses its squeegee-effect entirely while also smearing a clump of dried ink across your printhead, which then parks on the capping station and starts building-up ink on there as well...

we've done both, pull plate of metal on backside or top/bottom 1-2" strips of 1/8" alum, with tamper"proof" countersunk screws tapped into backside of the plaque. ...although "tamper proof" is only as good as one's ability to obtain a wire cutter and run off with a nice piece of metal with...

if your intention is to have indoor/outdoor/versatility on a budget, stick with solvent/ecosolvent/latex printing. dyesub & aqueous & UV printing have their uses, but I'd hardly recommend them for your first purchase. Your best bet is to get in touch with a company/sales rep. that would...

define "break the bank". ...By the time you get the cheapest printer available, and rip software to operate it... and a laminator to add quality/longevity to your product, then you're already in the $10k+ range. But if you're shopping on ebay & facebook marketplace, then best to decide how much...

hah, wow that was fast! i'll shoot you an email.

was just a thought to keep ya goin'.... in case you were one of those screen printing shops has a vinyl plotter handy. I understand the concept of the dots for registration, which can also be cut into the rubylith film that is used for screen exposure. if you're still in a pinch, you could...

if I were shopping one, I'd be all about the VP for the print speed & quality boost alone. Otherwise, they're basically the same machine but I've heard compliments to the SP's simplicity/durability. RIP software is ideal too.... uncertain which they include, or if licenses are intended to...

lol. it looks like it forgot it's own name. but appears to be the same message i've always seen on my printers upon startup, declaring its firmware version

most likely an IP issue related to you running it on a dynamic IP address setting. running any equipment over a network you'll usually want to set a Manual/Static IP address.

-has this been a chronic issue, only recently happening more frequently? -anything out of the ordinary lately, like service-work or head crashes? ink supply is usually the culprit, either air in the system or something inhibiting the flow. You can always rule out electrical/printhead issue...

+1 shutterstock or adove stock archives. not a fan of catalog artwork for this stuff, unless its already part of the whole graphic i intend to use like auroragraphics does for their swoosh/flags/stripes package. if you're customizing a logo or a shape, then i've found it easier to just watch...

i used to do this and leave it soak over a weekend with the machine unplugged. never an issue.

ballin' on a budget, you could always just put your pattern on a sheet of .063" aluminum and cut it with a nibbler attachment for your power drill.