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have you tried simply looking up the literature from your PVC manufacturer? (for example, Sintra)
there are also hundred of youtube videos of people explaining how to prepare/paint expanded foam pvc board using various methods.
we have a 12' Baileigh Shear, works as it should.
Past few years of operation we've only have had to replace a $30 solenoid that controlled arms that can be raised to hold the cutoff
+1 i've done this as well.... survey measured the Visible Opening but wrote it as plastic size.
p.s. still, sign faces bigger than your body should always be polycarb... shatter-proof being the main reason.
surveys should ALWAYS have both visible opening AND plastic cut size to fit, or if no...
6ft acrylic?!? go with Polycarbonate!
in theory, you could "make it work", by fabricating a signcomp frame to reduce your v.o. & fit your acrylic, but making a new face is a hell of a lot less effort and $$$ than modifying the structure of a painted metal cabinet.
unlaminated? madness.....
cured ink has a luster finish, i guess? not to poke fun, but if you're slapping out unlaminated prints then why sweat the details. you can print on matte/glossy media, and your ink is going to cure the same finish every time.
sandblasting to create braille? interesting, never heard of it but the pics prove it is possible to do.
+1 to learning something new everyday, I actually just saw a video of a UV printer building-up the 1/32" characters & braille & colorizing everything in one-go.
I still don't see why the...
That stuff is UHMWPE/HDPE. any graphic that has any chance to stick to it in the first place, will change the surface texture from "ice" to eventual shredded plastic & goopy adhesive :)
you would need to put it under the top layer, like in real ice rinks.... they don't just slap stickers on...
plenty of posts here from people with same issue
its either the substrate not being UV printable, or not primed properly, the ink is expired/old, OR you cut the panels too soon, as ink adhesion gets stronger over the 24hrs after printing.
HP FB550 manual can be found online. steps seem pretty...
FatHeads is a brand name of a product sold online that reps brands like the NFL/Marvel/Disney/DC, like in the commercials.
so when people reference "fat heads", I assume people are referring to the low-tack, easy-apply/remove, woven polyester wall graphic media like wallnoodle/phototex/etc.
briteline media is awesome. no issues here on my HP26500. we use their durationX with the UVshield overlam for our "cheap stuff" (mdo's, coroplast signs, location tags, etc.)
still, calendared is calendared.... no matter the "5yr" lifespan label people try to put on it. it wants to shrink...
we don't glue acrylic into sign faces, we push it through. machine your Acrylic like a top-hat, with a ledge around the perimeter that keeps it from falling-out the face of the sign. secure from the backside with hidden fasteners/adhesive.
seemed like a legit question. you could just answer on behalf of all Canadians and say "no, its not common for Canadians to vacation in Iran"...
But I guess you've just confirmed YOUR view of America. To each their-own, i guess. Chin up bud, not everyone can be GREAT.
fairly certain you don't mistakenly target a plane and launch a missile. my money is on Iran's assumption that no one would have proof it was done by them, and they would lean on public-outcry/conspiracy-theories to blame the United States.
as stated above,
no work around necessary, just set your cut swatch as an object fill....NOT a stroke.
(a stroke is two lines offset from object when converted to paths. an object has one line, at its true shape)
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