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"forum" still works, at least last I tried a few months ago.

The dampers are part of a duct assy and aren't easily swap-able. I hate to say it, but I just went through this, where I lost an entire band. At first it was intermittent. I tried swapping the damper/duct assy first, but in the end, the head was bad and replacing fixed the problem. Do the parts...

I've printed on the white version of that stuff with no problems on our S80600. Same heat settings as regular vinyl. It does seem like it takes a bit longer to completely gas out and dry than standard vinyl, so I wouldn't let printed faces touch for a while (IE don't fold it over on itself).

Component replacement history and a bunch of other data can be accessed via the service program by downloading and reading the NVRAM with the NVRAM viewer program. There are some status prints you can do. I think it's in Menu - Printer Status - Print Status Sheet. I believe that will give you...

I remembered reading this thread and decided to finally do something about the loud fan on our S80600. The WeTransfer link above is expired. Here is a link to the SA023N9 on the Epson Japan website, though it says it's for the s80650, it worked fine for me to stop the fan...

Its my understanding when using the rotating creasing tool like you linked, it will follow the direction of the cut/crease, just like a blade does. The center of the wheel should be offset from the center of the tool slightly to make that happen.

Nice, glad it worked out!

No idea. The only locks it has are for the up position, which are the two little chrome tabs that you flip over. I wonder if it's something hung up on the inside of the cover? I can look more closely at mine later...

You're looking to install CM4? Here is the link: https://www.graphtecamerica.com/cutting-master-4

Before I had a printer and was working with cut-vinyl, I would add registration marks to the artwork, expand their shape, then cut them out with the vinyl design. The cutter read them fine most of the time. So in your example above, the registration marks would be cut out of the vinyl color...

Are you feeding off the rolls, or are you just running sheets through? I find it much harder to run sheets through than by using rolls. You don't get the proper tension on the vinyl and laminate, which causes things like that to happen, in my experience. All that said, that looks much too...

I wonder if https://substance.com/products/ultracurve-660lse would be worth a try. Or https://substance.com/products/ultracurve-x1 if you need air egress adhesive.

We have a few of these. They work just fine - better if you attached them to the table. I like that they are closer to the table than some homemade versions Ive seen. https://uscutter.com/APPRoller-Tape-Application-Roller/

Time to consider saying no. It's liberating!

In illustrator, the easiest way to move a specified distance is to ctrl+shift+M (Object > Transform > Move). If you're trying to align to another object without moving the cutout, this is called aligning to a key object. Align or distribute relative to a key object Select the objects to align...

Its the cover for the ink mark sensor. It is just held on with double sided tape along the edges. It needs to be clear, so if yours is covered in ink or otherwise, you'll need to replace it. You can just cut one from a piece of clear plastic. Attached is the shape in vector form.

355TH here. Works great.

How large are the sheets? What registration marks are you using?

That's actually not bad. With the assembly being so big, it might enable more positioning flexibility - as opposed to having the slitter blade mounted right on a bar that must be mounted in the perfect position.

I've looked into adding this to our GFP as well. Attached are a bunch of options I found. In the end they are all contingent on having a place to mount the bar on the laminator that is positioned correctly.