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If you must use a foam core - use ultraboard - instead of a clay paper finish - it uses .030 styrene - produces a great finish when covered w/ vinyl - superior edges and is light weight

Check out Vectric.com - Great software - awesome tutorials

If you don't already have them - check out www.digitalauto.on.ca . These are 1/20th scaled drawings of 98% of all the vehicles out there. With these and Photoshop you can produce all the graphics you need - I use flexi w/ my Mutoh 1304 - never had a problem. Not had any hands on experience with...

UPS is great for that - Got to love the brown truck though

+1 - definitely - new blade

*Ideally* you will would want them separate. The question you need to have answered is what is the typical size and resolution of prints that you will be producing? The bigger the file - the more resources you need. I have run Onyx ProductionHouse, Wasatch, and Flexi Pro 8.1. Onyx and Wasatch...

are these window graphics? wall graphics? what material are they sending you?

use ultraboard - it has a foam core but the faces are polystyrene - much more durable - weather proof and you get a better finish

You should check out this stuff - you can get it from NL Glantz Xanita X-Board Environmentally-friendly alternative to MDO, particle board or foam-core. Made of recycled corrugated cardboard with less than 10% FSC virgin fibers. Manufactured from 100% post-consumer waste between two layers of...

From the Digital Auto Library - a 2001 Crew Cab long box measures 252.51 from the edge of the rear bumper to the edge of th front bumper 2001 Crew Cab short box - 237.88

In response to BadAsss' problem - I had some similiar issues w/ hood graphics - Seal the edges w/ a seal-it pen. No problems since

I just went through this - They were shipping the units as is - no box through UPS. Given the UPS drop test - the endcaps were bulging out and the tension springs were slipping. We wound upselling them on some Expand media units w/ shipping cases. They are expensive but they solve the...

IMO - I like the last one - It stands alone by itself w/o the extra stroke

I have used keencut rotaries for 6+ years - they always are sharp and because the blade guards are clear - you can see exactly where you are going to cut your edges. These work great for making roll stock stickers into individual squares / rectangles

BS or not - I use them and they work flawless - if you want to purchase OEM inks at 65% more than I can get 3rd party - have fun with that. I would rather put the money in my pocket than the printer manufacturer.

If you have to purge your inkset - its not the same ink formula. The inks form 1110 aren't compatible. If you want to run 3rd party inks - go with bordeaux. They are plug and play interchangeable w/ the OEM inks. If you run low - you can always go back to the original ink w/ no problem. We...

You can get away with less compression on the 3/8 grommets - If you want no dimple - use a 1/2" grommet - it works great

Using Zorbix 13oz from fellers on a Mutoh 1304 w/ EcoSol inks

Dan - I attended a seminar you gave at the USSC show in AC some years back - I appreciate the insight you gave there and the continued critiques here in the forums. The more people in the sign industry I meet - the stronger designer and fabricator it makes me. Thanks for your input.

I always feed my rip tif files. I have seen lots of issues resolving pdf images w/ extra junk mixed in.