Search results

I run Pre-Press US and colormetric under versaworks after media has been profiled, and I get fantastic results. It's all about that profile. I have found, to get absolute blacks under my setup, is to use "Register Black" in my AI artwork. If it is raster artwork, I may have to adjust the...

I run a XR-640 with CMYKcmk and use the profiles from the roland website with a 95% success rate. I find everything I need between Oracal and 3M, including some Durasol. Some profiles just didn't work till a tech came out, fixed some firmware and deep maintenance and everything was right as...

4 years unprinted under the ideal conditions. Always slash 1.5 - 2 years off their cal media after its been printed. Water based adhesive makes it easy to remove, but becomes near permanent after a year or two depending on temperatures

Make sure the artwork is rasterized/flattened and is in CMYK. Then make sure those cut paths are spot color and named appropriately. Versaworks is dumb like that. Can't have competing RGB/CMYK elements in the artwork and visual styles like drop shadows, excessive masks, glow, etc will break the...

But listen, if you manage to work with them, they will be sure to tell all their friends, family, and coworkers about what a good job you did and it will all be worth it when that business starts rolling in. <end sarcasm>

I've used 3268, 3628 and even 3169. Yeah, the material is more playable and prone to surface damage than their normal offerings, but adhesion is still highly dependent on the surface. I've had unlaminated 3628 on the doors of outside ice chests that I just took down after a year and I was amazed...

yeah I found myself shimmying at an angle, but I agree it's a pain especially with more rigid material.

From a graphic design perspective, I would find examples in my portfolio to pitch to a perspective client that fits the scope of work. Having a strong body work to call upon can save you the hassle of doing spec work, but sometimes it's advantageous to take that initiative and present something...

My shot in the dark is cutting while heat is applied or the blade extension is too short causing grazing.. or the blade is unable to turn properly causing the grazing.

Roland has a solvent canvas material I never bothered to try, but my thinking is, if I were to delve in to canvas prints, I better know how to stretch a frame and mount it properly. Processing artwork is only a small part of it, and I don't want to devote my time and energy in to that. So it is...

blade drag from carriage travel is from the blade being extended too far or bowing of material having to increase force is a sign of a dull or broken blade wavy lines and irregular cuts, especially irregularities in linear cuts, is a bad cutting strip check yo strip, check yo blade.

absolutely not good for a wrap. 3651 RA still shrinks like it's brother 3651, that and I've observed jobs with higher ink coverage only enhances the shrink effect.

nah, I remember trying that video and it just complicates a simple process. If I've got time, I may throw a quick video for here that is good for thick to thin films.

Is it a Seal cold laminator like the 65 EL? If so, I could possibly shoot some video for you. The trick with them is the final webbing on the take up roll; the take-up reel has to pull the backing evenly, and then films with thinner backer can make things even trickier. If this is a 65EL or...

yeah if seen as length wise, J Hill is right that it is feed calibration that is off since it becomes inaccurate over the length of the print.

This is a Thin, Condensed, Monospaced typeface. Could be modified judging off those "E"'s

for the good customers, we maintained the trust and were up front with our capabilities if asked and explained we had a trusted vendor fulfilling specific requests, especially when deadlines were important! Otherwise, the regular joe-walk-in doesn't need to think they have a leg up on me just...

We build our own production computers that either have the Quadro k620 or Geforce 770's running dual monitor with either 16gb or 32gb configurations. We still rely mostly on Sata III drives, but our scratch drives are all SSDs. If you have the capacity to stay on top of your own hardware(we are...

just as TimToad says essentially. Your copied outline will just stay as an outline, while you adjust the scale of the entire artwork- obviously grouped and hopefuly as a copy to not destroy the original

I can tell there is a ton of tension on that roll. Both the roll and webbed up is tight tight tight which translates straight to the roller. At some point in the webbing, you should probably let the film relax, or unwind the your lam a bit before webbing it up on your machine. Looks to be...