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Thanks Stanton. I'll clarify further. Imagine a mail-order catalog of various colored a-frame sign stands. What color would you guess would be most in demand at your shop if white and black were not available options?
Disregard the entire thread if you don't use pre-made a-frame sign stands...
I also prefer email because you can respond at your connivence (as was stated), but I also love that everything communicated is recorded and can be referred back to. So, less disagreements about what was said if something on an order goes wrong.
All "preferences aside", I think we’re off...
Imagine a generic a-frame sign stand and a post and pedestal sign stand and a snap-frame wall mounted poster holder. There are others as well. Yes, it isn't economical if you guess wrong. That is why I'd like to gather some opinions.
I'm looking for what you're most likely to use. You may...
The post wasn't complete when you answered. See the post and then see the survey now. We've got some colors in our sign hardware/stands and are looking to offer more.
-Tom
We're looking to make some new colored sign stands. We've got black, white, red, green and yellow. The black and white are OK, but the current colors are kind of saturated and a bit garish. I wanted to get the opinion of sign professionals as to which of these colors (or others) would be...
Are you using a press with self-piercing grommets ?
I don't know if it is faster, but there are grommet alternatives like the banner-ups that also work with 4mm coroplast, but you'd still need to punch the holes.
The "jig" idea is always a time saver.
-Tom
1st, one person said they use a flatbed inkjet. Be carefull doing this with a UV printer as the UV light can reflect back up into the heads and cause issues. Without the right equipment, I'd go with option #1 or #2. I'd use opaque black vinyl as it will show up good on the white reflective...
The Fletcher Titan FSC cuts aluminum composites.
See... this item, but it is expensive. So, I'd use a saw until you find yourself cutting a lot of Alumalite.
-Tom
Yea, the sign shops looking for a horizontal cutter typically go for the Fletcher Titan 04*752. See it here
It does:
• Corrugated Plastics up to 1/2" (13mm)
• PVC up to 1/4" (6mm)
• Banner Materials
• Foamboard up to 1/2" (13mm)
-Tom
I also recomment 10mm coroplast. You can run cable through the fultes instead of using grommets Or you could drill holes and use bannerups to strengthen the holes. The other ideas (like alumalite) would also be fine.
-Tom
SignsDirect.com
It really depend on if they are traffic signs or street name signs. For a street name sign, an edge works great. I also think it is fine for 12"x18" signs. For large signs...it is not a good fit. For large orange road construction signs.. use reflective orange blanks and black cut vinyl...
For big signs, see...
http://matanprinters.com/products/traffic-printer/
Usually you thermally print using transparent foils.
The only thing that would be cheap enough is an old gerber edge II for 5$k (with suitable plotter for contour cutting).
On an Edge you can thermally print onto clear...
We've got these four safety rulers...
http://www.signsdirect.com/Home/Rulers-Straight-Edges-T-Squares/
...And we've got Fletcher cutters if you want to use something else.
This is often called "guerrilla marketing". I don't understand how they get away with it because it basically says who they are on the sign. Right on every sign it has a phone number or in some cases an address or web page. Without contact information, the sign does them no good. In any case...
Should be no problem with two posts. On one post, the sign mounted on the narrow side of the "U" can rock in the wind shortening the life of the sign. The newer style of rib-back posts make the sign on the bottom of the "U" more stable than they were in the past.
-Tom
SignsDirect.com
Here is that YouTube video showing flame treating.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gff_6RnlBoc
You may get individual cut letters to stick right onto the polyethylene, but the manufacturer recommends against it.
Tom
SignsDirect
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