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Oh side note to a problem you didn't ask for help with... Your colors cross contaminated because the new Mutoh inks cause your capping station pads to swell up. Robert M on this forum mentioned something about ordering a different brand ink, but another solution seems to be removing 1 layer of...

What were your exact steps? Did you take the heads out to do the soak or something?? Such a simple process SHOULD NOT result in such a huge problem. To damage any of your green boards you usually have to physically touch a component with your hands or a magnetic screwdriver while there is still...

You changed print heads and the problem got better but not completely fixed? Leads me to believe you have some bad/dirty ribbon cables... or worse a fried board.

Try lifting pressure lever on the carriage and maybe cleaning encoder strip.

I think it's what they use to seperate the capping stations pads on the production line. ...Just a theory.

Engineer at Mutoh denies that the ink has anything to do with it, although they also admit that they don't know what the problem is so I don't understand why they're ruling out the ink theory... Kind of like to hear Randy's side of the story.

Never heard of it before but it looks just like my Falcon Outdoor I but older. :P Wouldn't advise getting it unless they are paying you to take it, if it's anything like my Outdoor. >.<

Good call... I also always neglect to tell people that they should probably be grounded when working on the printer. Unplugged + Grounded = Win Never touch a green board (circuit board) when your printer is on.

Some instructions on setting your head rank: Once you've figured out how to set your head rank, you should scroll through the "adjustment" menu to find a "home" option and use that as well. It will home your head carriage to the capping station, and if that doesn't work, make sure your heads...

What software/rip are you using? Should be able to adjust your linearization in the software.

Don't know what printer you have but on my Falcon Outdoor I have to hold down the top 3 menu buttons while the printer is turning on to get to the extra special service menu (lol)... Then scroll down with my menu/down button and hit enter when on "diag: adjustments", then enter again when it...

Yep it will affect all the colors, making them a lighter shade. I'm okay with that and I think if you want everything to be perfect you have to make a custom ICC profile.

I actually did search for "grey is green" and saw no clear answer under Mutoh product line. :omg: CMY were all about 75% density, I set them to about 35% for a light grey to show up nicely.

This is the reverse side of a maintenance station ^^ This is "a" capping station (not exactly the same as yours, but close enough). Two tubes go from the capping station to the pump and then from the pump you have two more tubes that should lead to your waste bottle. Found those...

Problem resolved.

Thank you. and Mosh should be specific about what to search for if he/she knows what the problem is. Not helpful at all.

Nozzle check looks fine. Dampers look fine, can't see any signs of color contamination... I thought it might be a Flexi problem so I tried printing gray on the other computer with Flexi and looks exactly the same. Why is my gray green? -_-

Oooookaaaaay not possible to do double sided cold with an edge but that was fun to try. Lol

Might need to do a 2x3' double sided 10mil heat laminate for a customer. Can anyone in California do that size? I'm down by Fresno and everyone here uses cold, including us. Think it would be kosher to do a double sided cold? (Didn't know what topic to put this thread under, sorry) :Sleeping:

You can align them when you screw them down.