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Mimaki's insistence on re-boxing and labeling common parts with their part numbers and crazy markup is a big part of the issue. Had lots of parts get quoted as being 2 months out, good time to have salvage printers around I guess.

It's in the maintenance menu, I believe under setup. Nothing personal, if you don't know that, messing with parameters is a really bad idea.

Just reset the printer, it asks for ink type in the fill-up procedure.

Yeah, those bridges are critical for four color mode. Ends up being nice having a cartridge buffer on each of the 4 colors. Can run only 4 cartridges and be fine, great for when waiting on ink to come in.

I need a 1-900 number.

On a JFX500 we have, the station board had a bad IC. Just resoldered in a replacement and spent $12 instead of $500. Might've been a stepper driver chip, would have to look it up if this were the case. Usually ink in sensors or bent/maligned tabs tend to do it. Also, if I don't want to help...

Note how the M is bridged to the other M, Y and Y, C and C, K and K, if those junctions are not installed, you're going to have nothing but headaches.

Sometimes, I also keep weird hours. People call me at all hours of the night sometimes when stuff goes down. Should probably charge them.

When doing 4 color, the cartridges deplete one at a time, allows hot-swapping. You're fine. Just need to install the line bridge connectors that common the like-colors together.

Track the station motor wiring back and it should be the board that the stepper plugs into. Have a service manual you can reference?

Might be the endstop switch not reading or damaged if I were to guess. I think the station PCB has an LED light for the switch/sensor, try moving something back and forth between it and see if you can see the LED blinking.

Went through same, but not at a desk. Will follow up later if nobody else responds.

UV ink is typically a bad idea for food contact surfaces and clothing. So toner is usually a safe alternative, or sublimation.

Helped some folks setup and run 3 head Chinese flatbeds, but they end up spending $5k on the printer and another couple grand calling me at all hours for help before up and running.

Contact your Mimaki dealer.

I'll leave you to it then. Might want to do a cap alignment procedure as well, covered in service manual.

Swap the heads or still using the crusty ones?

Subtanks barely go bad, likely pressure/vacuum manifold.

If you want to get real technical, they're Epson L1440 unlocked heads designed for third party use. https://epson.com/inkjet-printheads?msockid=3e910c29923467b831ae19f693fb6644

Are you using RasterLink 7?