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This is the WTB section. Maybe toss in some pictures, including of the usage, time, nozzle check and all that. Does it come with software? Ink? Depending on the area, even with a new head, a CJV150-75 can be head with a good head can be a slow sell as the small width really handicaps them.

Subtanks (no dampers) rarely go bad on these, but not a bad idea to swap with heads. Do your best to clean the metal bracketry around the heads. They're crash-guards, so ok to scrub, just avoid hitting the tan ceramic recessed area where the nozzles are.

Did it sit with primer in in? Those heads look trashed, head 1 is probably totally gone if I were to go off the looks alone. 2 and 3 might be recoverable, and head 4 is a wildcard since there is so much ink on it I cannot see much. Pick up some Mimaki Maintenance Fluid 16 and try to wipe the...

Look up underneath the head carriage and get a good look at the nozzle plates to see how they look.

Or, you know, autopsy the motors to check for failure condition.

I know when I'm not wanted. =P

I prefer UV inks for durability, LUS170 is great for not needing laminating in my experience. Though, we run UV for everything, lower maintenance is nice too.

Setup lots of 330 series machines, never seen a UCJV330 in dual CMYK mode. However, a TS330 with that setup was wicked quick. Similar heads, just one was the aqueous version of the i3200 versus the UV version. The specs page from Mimaki covers the sqft/hr for each setup and is decently accurate.

Never tried, guess I should.

We have a Fletcher 3000, love it, but no ACM tool. Works great on acrylic and lucked out finding a huge stash of blades on eBay for $30. Lifetime supply. The SawTrax looks way more capable than the stuff Milwaukee has on offer.

Usually happens when the printer sits for a few days. Usually fine, but since ink and primer share a capping station (there's 2 sections, connected with a Y fitting). Heads naturally drip and it's a good thing, keeps clogging from being as much of an issue. Since the ink reacts with the primer...

This is a pretty typical scenario with me on the UJF MKIIs with primer, the primer nozzles are mostly fine, but it reacts with the clear ink and cements in place. The Gen5 heads on the JFX200/500 are more durable in some ways and have a single unified nozzle plate and are easier to clean. It's...

Sawtrax looks far more capable in my opinion.

Which fits your needs better? We're not going to be the ones using the thing. ;)

I tend to have a near overlap of a single nozzle row for best results, can try doing slightly more overlap to avoid gapping and leaning more towards heavier ink between passes. It's really fine tuning and a magnifier is key. Also, on some materials, you're just going to go with a higher pass count.

Get a sample and try applying it by hand to see how well it works. If you need some, I think I have 4-5 liters of that nasty stuff kicking around I can send you.

Yup

Wipe on primers will be a ton more aggressive than anything that you can put through a head. If you those don't work, Pr-200 is going to be hilariously terrible.

Need to do a lot of stuff to swap to primer, and yeah, it is bad about nuking heads. Might want to look into brush-on products or pre-treating acrylic. I tend to get good adhesion on LUS150 + acrylic by only removing the protector right before printing.

Rasterlink handles it fine and 7 is like $50/copy.