1-shot Cleaning Brushes

[oliverdesign]

I'm working on my first hand lettered sign with 1-shot.
What is the best way to clean and store brushes? Just swish around in 1-shot brush cleaner, then rinse with water? I've read about storing in oil or wrapping in newspaper. I got a few expensive brushes and don't want to ruin them. Thanks in advance.

 

[GVP]

Two containers of mineral spirits or brush cleaner - remove surplus paint with a rag, and then swill in container 1 to get the worst out, then into No.2 for a final clean. Finish off by gently drying with a clean cloth and then oil 'em up. Dip them up to the ferrule and wipe surplus off on edge of container. You can buy brush oil, but you can also use clean (i.e. unused) motor oil - don't use any vegetable oils, though. When container #2 gets too dirty, demote it to container #1 and use fresh cleaner for #2. No to the water.

 

[Mike Paul]

They should never see water unless there is an initial binder holding the hairs together.

First thing you want to do is oil them. Dip in brush oil and turn upside down to get the oil up in the ferrule.

After using them clean the paint off with a rag, rinse well in at least two different containers of solvent and then oil them again. I usually feather the quill tip to a chizzlel with my thumb and pointer finger then store in a brush box.

 

[Service Sign Co]

Go to an automotive store and get Non Detergent motor oil. If it doesn't say non detergent on the container then it is not likely to be non detergent.
You will be glad to have purchased the right oil , especially when you store tour brushes for several years.

 

[J Hill Designs]

old shop used lard oil, this one uses clean motor oil - NEVER water as mentioned, also only use it for oil based paints - no back'n'forthin between water based and oil based

 

[OldPaint]

YOU SCREWED UP ALREADY.........before you ever PUT BRUSH TO PAINT........quills in particular......SOAK THEM IN 10 W NON DETERGENT MOTOR OIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WHY???
doing this, allows the OIL..........to seep into the FERREL, where the hairs are tied. once the OIL in is the Ferrel.......THE 1 SHOT CANT GET UP THERE!!!! this will keep the brush soft and supple for many years. NOT DOING THIS..........will let paint in the ferrel, and IT WILL DRY IN THERE...this causes a rounding at the top of the hairs.......and you can never get this out .....unless maybe you got a good sonic cleaner.......
after cleaning the brush in the solvents................to dry em.......
1. open your hand
2. lay handle of brush across the palm of that hand
3. now place other hand over the handle, like your praying
4. now turn hands so the hairs of the brush are on the bottom
5. now roll hands back a forth.........like you tryin to warm them up
6. this will turn the brush rapidly throwing off all cleaning solvent
7. now find the twisted wire.........
8. now with finger and thumb, flatten the hairs using the twisted wire as a guide for finding the the flat of the brush.
9. now.......lay the brush in a shallow tray that has 1/8-3/16" of 10W NON-DETERGENT MOTOR OIL.......
10. when you need to use again, take out brush, wipe handle of all oil, swish the hairs in mineral spirits to clean oil out....AND GO TO IT!!!!

 

[SignosaurusRex]

YOU SCREWED UP ALREADY.........before you ever PUT BRUSH TO PAINT........quills in particular......SOAK THEM IN 10 W NON DETERGENT MOTOR OIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WHY???
doing this, allows the OIL..........to seep into the FERREL, where the hairs are tied. once the OIL in is the Ferrel.......THE 1 SHOT CANT GET UP THERE!!!! this will keep the brush soft and supple for many years. NOT DOING THIS..........will let paint in the ferrel, and IT WILL DRY IN THERE...this causes a rounding at the top of the hairs.......and you can never get this out .....unless maybe you got a good sonic cleaner.......

While it is best to soak the brushes with oil before using in paint it is not an absolute that you screwed up. Make sure you get all the paint out of the ferrule by squeezing it and the brush hairs continuously while rinsing in clean thinner. Do this again in oil until you feel confident all the paint is out. I prefer mineral oil as my brush oil and it allows for a more accurate visual of the paints being cleaned from the brush. If you have already rinsed them in water, then you may want to rinse them thoroughly in denatured alcohol and then go to a good rinse and ferrule massage with oil. Let them sit for a day or two fully loaded with oil and then repeat a clean thinner, then oil rinse. The brushes should then be okay.

 

[Service Sign Co]

It doesn't hurt to wash them in water before you use them for the first time.

 

[Si Allen]

Listen to Old Paint ... he has the correct procedure!

Instead of motor oil, I use mineral oil from the drug store! It is clear and allows you to see if any paint is left in the brush when you give it a squeeze. If so, then repeat the cleaning.

 

[Still use Brushes]

On a new brush, I'll clean the brush good with mineral spirits, then soak in Transmission Fluid, turn upside down so it will work into the ferrel, squeeze out excess and store away. Tranny fluid sounds strange, but it has worked on my brushes for a long time.

 

[Techman]

wiki...

Mineral oil or liquid petroleum is a by-product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum based products from crude oil. It is a transparent, colorless oil composed mainly of alkanes (typically 15 to 40 carbons) and cyclic paraffins, related to petroleum jelly (also known as "white petrolatum"). It has a density of around 0.8 g/cm3.[1] Mineral oil is a substance of relatively low value, and it is produced in very large quantities. Mineral oil is available in light and heavy grades, and can often be found in drug stores.

 

[SignosaurusRex]

1. open your hand
2. lay handle of brush across the palm of that hand
3. now place other hand over the handle, like your praying
4. now turn hands so the hairs of the brush are on the bottom
5. now roll hands back a forth.........like you tryin to warm them up
6. this will turn the brush rapidly throwing off all cleaning solvent
7. now find the twisted wire.........
8. now with finger and thumb, flatten the hairs using the twisted wire as a guide for finding the the flat of the brush.
9. now.......lay the brush in a shallow tray that has 1/8-3/16" of 10W NON-DETERGENT MOTOR OIL.......
10. when you need to use again, take out brush, wipe handle of all oil, swish the hairs in mineral spirits to clean oil out....AND GO TO IT!!!!

O.P.....for once I agree with you. This particular practice you describe is usually shunned by most sign painters. My grandfather taught it to me and every other elder of the trade that I have ever known taught it as well. I'm glad you added it to your post.

 

[OldPaint]

TRANSMISSION OIL.........IS CAUSTIC!!!!! ask anyone who has worked rebuilding automatic trannys.....THEY DONT LET THE STUFF TOUCH THEIR SKIN.
yes it it OIL...........witha lot more crap in it, that wont do anything to protect "natural hair" !!!! in fact most of the additives will help DESTROY HAIR.
http://www.alcoa.com/fastening_systems/aerospace/catalog/pdf/specifications/Dexron_III.pdf
ive heard of people using MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, for brush storage..........again........it is OIL, with a lot of things you dont need.

 

[Jillbeans]

I clean mine with two washes of paint thinner.
You can even thwack them off the toe of your boot after this step.
Then I store in regular baby oil.
I mean they are literally lying in baby oil in my sign kit.
When I use them again I swish in turpentine and wipe off the handles with a dry clean rag.
Paint thinner can dull your finish in the lettering.
I hate the 1S brush cleaner. I also hate "wall dog" brand brush oil, I lost a bunch of brushes to it when they became Viagrafied. Kafka oil is nice, smells like patchouli.
But baby oil is what I have found to be the best since they stopped making Sapphire Brush Oil.
A lot of people I know (I have one but rarely use it) use Rapid Remover in a sonic jewelry cleaner to get the paint out of the brushes. It really works.
Many people do not even oil their brushes after using this system.
Love....jill

 

[Patrick46]

Sonic cleaners rock at really cleaning out yer brushes...and don't cost much at all.
Old Paint's advice is right on the money too, but couldn't you just tell the OP to spin dry the brush after the last cleaning, then oil it and put it to bed? Whn working with newbies...ya gotta keep them directions simple!

 

[OldPaint]

the flattening of the hairs.........to correspond with the twisted wire..........IS VERY IMPORTANT......and then you lay the brush in a flat tray......and have the brush completely covered in oil............ reason for this is IF...ANY PAINT is left in the Ferrel.........being emersed in oil.......will IMPEDE ANY DRYING.......of that paint.............

 

[daveb]

I knew this was going to be a fun time. Although I just join signs101 I've read the forums for years and come to know that old paint is a really crusty old fart (I can appreciate that) and he's usually right. If you take his advice you could possibly retire with the those same brushes (might be stretching it a bit). The cleaning technique he described is exactly the one I was taught 30 years ago by my old boss and he was taught the same technique by his father when he was a kid. When he let me use one of the good brushes he always said the brush was older than I was. If it's broken in right a good brush can make a big difference (including flattening the hairs with the twist of the wire). It's the difference between craft and just painting a sign.

 

[Jackpine]

I use mineral oil.

 

[Gino]

Welcome from PA......................



You'll lose most of your first brushes, because most of this is too difficult to do for a beginner. As the hairs start coming out and a #6 slowly turns into a #4 or #3.... you'll develop your own methods for cleaning and taking care.

I have brushes that are 25 years old.... and some older. I have no idea why I keep them around so long. I hardly use them anymore, but I still have them. Anyway, I clean them in turps and oil them with a few finger strokes of motor oil. It's the only thing I've found that won't eventually dry out and cake up in your brush if not used often enough.

I also developed a habit of keeping light brushes in one area and dark brushes in another..... being careful not to mix them up. That way.... those first few strokes of working your brush out on a pallet won't be so severe a change.

If you work your brush correctly and take good care of it... you will see your brushes take on a shape based upon your hand styling and it will fit your hand like a glove. It will twirl and snap in your fingers... and only your fingers..... if you care for it.

If I might ask.... what brushes do you have that you think they are so expensive ??

 

[G-Artist]

I have never used anything but lard oil...still have and use 40+ year-old brushes.

Mineral oil is good because it is NEUTRAL and you can drink it. Good for seasoning kitchen cutting boards as well. Too expensive vs. lard oil for brushes.

Bottom line: if it isn't safe to ingest, it shouldn't be used on your brushes.

Another way of looking at it is if your brushes are composed of natural materials, your oils should be as well. Oh, and you do want to be GREEN, don't you??? LOL!!!