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10m coroplast hole punch recommendation

MHester

New Member
Hey folks. I need to get a small table top hole punch that can punch a single 3/8" hole through 10mm coroplast. I have tried drilling the holes and using a punch tool w/hammer, but neither option gives me a clean cut. I don't have a CNC, so that's why I'm looking for some sort of small tabletop punch recommendations. Thanks :)
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
If you do quite a few up at once, put a piece of wood on top and bottom, your holes will drill just fine.. Afterall, we're talking about Cor-X, the cheapest material out there. Why must the hole be neat and clean for a bottom-of-the-barrel substrate ?? Do and sell it for what it is.
 
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MHester

New Member
If you do quite a few up at once, put a piece of wood on top and bottom, your holes will drill just fine.. Afterall, we're talking about Cor-X, the cheapest material out there. Why must the hole be neat and clean for a bottom-of-the-barrel substrate ?? Do and sell it for what it is.
I know, I know....I'm just a perfectionist when it comes to clean holes though. Especially when the coro is so high off the ground, no one will see it anyways (see pic). I'll just continue with my hand punch and Judy, but 80 holes will take a long time, just trying to find a more effective and less time consuming way to do it.
 

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MHester

New Member
Gino's right. I often forget this point myself.
Maybe throw a grommet in it instead?
I did that once, but the grommet wasn't deep enough and pinched the 10mm coro too tightly. The grommet tool I have only works well on a 4mm coro. Good idea though :)
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
First, I hope that picture is not your design. That's Horrible with a capital H.

Next, I can't believe you're only using Cor-X in something like that. You do realize Cor-X is a temporary exterior product... even at 10mm.

Last, they make long-neck grommets and it fits 10mm.
 
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MHester

New Member
First, I hope that picture is not your design. That's Horrible with a capital H.

Next, I can't believe you're only using Cor-X in something like that. You do realize Cor-X is a temporary exterior product... even at 10mm.

Last, they make a long-neck grommets and it fits 10mm.
Hehe. First, nope not my design. Second, yes, it's supposed to last only a year, its a temp. And Last, I 'll look into the long neck grommets, thanks for the tip. P.S. Thanks for the laugh :)
 
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MHester

New Member
facepalm-picard.gif


You could always grab some of the deeper grommets for 10mm. https://webstore.stimpson.com/2xl-self-piercing-grom-and-washer-stainless-steel-304-espgw2xlss
Thanks for the tip :) I'll look into it Picard. Sorry....6 years in sign making and I'm always learning something new... Thanks for your help :)
 
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signage

New Member
I use a hollow Punch for holes in all soft material and Roper Whitney for rigid materials
 
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ProSignTN

New Member
I noticed 'Judy' is only 8 ounces, Maybe step up to the 'Janice' at 12 oz, or go bold and try the 'Jolene' at 16 ounces. We got a 2 lb sledge with a 6 inch handle for things like this. I call it 'My Little Pecker'. And yow, better use the grommets.
 
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ProSignTN

New Member
Seriously though, Gino's stacked and pressed drilling idea has been used many times around here.
 
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Ian Stewart-Koster

Older Greyer Brushie
Charge $1.50 - $2.00 per hole, and do them however you wish, but a rough hole gets disguised once the grommet is in there.
 
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Gino

Premium Subscriber
Seriously though, Gino's stacked and pressed drilling idea has been used many times around here.
I've been using it since I learned it about 45 years ago. It also works when drilling just about anything in quantity from wood, to metal to shocard. And ya don't need a grommet to hide anything.
 
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MHester

New Member
Thanks everyone for your advice :) At 6 years of running an in-house sign shop, there is still A TON that I don't know....I'm learning as I go. Thanks for all your help, y'all are the best!
 
I stack them too when in multiples. Not mentioned is that you must make it tight before drilling or you might have some cleaning up to do. I clamp them down pretty hard.
 

petepaz

New Member
i have to drill all kinds of material here (aluminum, composites, acrylic, sintra, styrene....and so on) and Gino is right just put a piece of wood top and bottom and you are good to go.
 
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