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Texas_Signmaker

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Christian @ 2CT Media said:
If you didn't want to do a frame system could you do aircraft cable spans with cable grippers eyelets and zip ties every 12"?
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We have that on some locations. They work nicely when installing and banner and keeps wrinkles out of it, but they fail too because the wind catches the backside of the banner. And yes Jburton... the anchors have to be tied into something on the backside because it would rip those panels off... lots of tension on them
 
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Gino

Gino

Premium Subscriber
gnubler said:
Reminds me of one of my favorite Youtube install videos using a Honda Civic and grandma's quilt to protect the sign. View attachment 159591
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Ya gotta start somewhere. Were you always this amazingly successful ?? You even closed your doors to get work done..... you're so busy.

Usually, when someone closes their doors, it's because they're very busy. That can only mean one thing, especially in new businesses. You're either dirt cheap or ya can't find anyone to work for ya, cause you're dirt cheap.
 
Texas_Signmaker

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
I got a quote from lind system.. by the time you factor in the install labor we're almost at the same price if we just do ACM at 10x40. It would be a good system if the banners need changing every so often..
 
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Notarealsignguy

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
JBurton said:
That's not even saying that ACM will actually hold up better than a banner, we had several torn from buildings in the same series of storms I'm sure.
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I prefer to use 080 for things that will be mounted on a building. I am always worried that the ACM will tear and hit someone
 
Eforcer

Eforcer

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Texas_Signmaker said:
I have a 10x40 banner mounted directly to an rpanel exterior wall. Some locations the banner ends up ripping off. They are secured every 2' with self tapping sheet metal screws and washers. Some banners fail by grommets ripping out, and some fail with the actual fasteners ripping out. We've also had some on tension systems that have failed too. My thought is to add 1" aluminum square tubing around the perimeter of the banner over the grommets once it's attached. Anyone have any thoughts on that idea? The goal is to balance cost. An alternative was to make 10x40 out of aluminum panels but it's significantly more expensive.
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Obviously using an 18 oz material will help. When we receive orders that are more than 20' long. Every 2' we reinforce behind grommets with a square piece of coroplast. Takes a little more time and effort, but ultimately secures it better than not having it.

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Johnny Best

Johnny Best

Active Member
So it sounds like the wind is getting behind the banner and flapping in those places it is breaking down. Think you need every 12" for grommets. Does it break down on the bottom, sides or the top of the banner. 18 oz is strong enough and if you have webbing sewed in it would make it stronger.
 
G

garyroy

New Member
Is the R-Panel allowing wind to get behind the banner, because of it's profile and then pulling at the grommets?
We've cut semi circles in some of our banners in the past to allow wind to escape. Not too large, about 3" diameter.
Of course you just leave the material there. We put them in "non critical" spots where there wasn't much printing.
This allowed some of the wind shear to pass through when it pushed against the banner, especially when they were hung on fences at schools.
Just an idea.
I also like the idea of some coroplast in the grommeted areas, That would add strength.
 
A

Aaron Hunter

New Member
We usually go the 1" square tube route but will do smaller panels for easier transport and installation. For this I'd do (8) 5'x10' pre stretched sections. For installation, I love z-clips.
 
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