Cut-out Letters on wall

3Dsigns

New Member
Planning to install some router-cut "Dibond" letters to a sheetrock wall(as in the photo) using 3M double-faced tape. How would you prepare your pattern to install these? Thanks
Acentria jpg2.JPG
 

fresh

Member
I'd probably plot a split stencil using paint mask or whatever cheap vinyl you have laying around. I'd rather do it that way than to have to manually cut out the spaces on a paper pattern.
 

FASTSIGNS

New Member
I've attached a pic of how we do all our dimensional (tape/silicon) install for the past 15 years. The letters are put on thier paper pattern, then transfer taped on top, then flipped over as a whole showing the backside. The mounting tape is applied on the back. The letters are in their correct position. The whole is loaded onto coroplast (or any other sacraficial material) in their finished position (but in reverse with the back side showing). After the silicon is applied, the whole coroplast is used to put up the whole text/logo. The bottom of the coroplast is the straight edge to use for leveling. The coroplast is pushed on the front so the tape and silicon seal. Coroplast removed, transfer tape removed and all is done. I know it sounds complicated, but the install take 10 minutes at the customer site. All our new employees are shocked at how easy and accurate this method is.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4720.JPG
    IMG_4720.JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 317
We use Oracal 631 or some other comparable, cheap, leftover vinyl from another job, as long as it will stick to the paint okay. Just make your cut vinyl pattern 1/8" oversized and placement is easy.
 

3Dsigns

New Member
I've attached a pic of how we do all our dimensional (tape/silicon) install for the past 15 years. The letters are put on thier paper pattern, then transfer taped on top, then flipped over as a whole showing the backside. The mounting tape is applied on the back. The letters are in their correct position. The whole is loaded onto coroplast (or any other sacraficial material) in their finished position (but in reverse with the back side showing). After the silicon is applied, the whole coroplast is used to put up the whole text/logo. The bottom of the coroplast is the straight edge to use for leveling. The coroplast is pushed on the front so the tape and silicon seal. Coroplast removed, transfer tape removed and all is done. I know it sounds complicated, but the install take 10 minutes at the customer site. All our new employees are shocked at how easy and accurate this method is.
How do you keep the letters from moving while you lay the transfer tape?
 

tbullo

Superunknown
Earlier this year there was a discussion on how others installed ACM or PVC cut out letters. I didn't have any photos of my process, only the finial results. I always just seem to get the job going and forget to photo some steps. Well here is a few I remembered to do last week.
This job was some brushed aluminum on 6mm pvc and router cut. I plot out a paper pattern and tape to table. Then I take some old 8518 liner and place over the paper pattern and tape to table. I then put the VHB tape onto the back of the letters. Now I take the backing off the VHB taped letters and place them on the liner over the pattern. When this step is finished I pull the paper pattern out from under the liner and transfer tape across all the letters. I use 2 layers ( thanks SignBrad ). I put a level line across the job in a easy spot from leveling out at the job. When I get to the location, I just tape on the wall in place, level and center up and then pull the liner from behind the letters. Most all the work is done in the shop saving time on the location.
I have used this method for letters 3mm up to 12mm. I have used this method for 12mm x 12''tall letters that run out 8 feet.
I thought maybe some people could use this trick and its super easy. I have a few accounts that like 6mm copper letters and logos that are smaller then 36'' and I just provide it to them put together like this and they can do it on their own.
Merry Christmas

Attached Files:
 

MikePro

Member
never hurts to add a little silicone adhesive with VHB tape install. they compliment each other well.

if you can't make a pounce pattern, which I think is the easiest/cleanest way, then I'm a huge fan of the "wing it" method:
1) plot the pattern
2) painter's-tape mount it on the wall
3) use a pen/pencil to "dent"/scratch through the paper certain corners of each letter
4) mount the letter/logo. use the dimples you've marked in the painted wall as your alignment, making sure you've marked it so that the letter covers your "damage"
4a) tear-away the paper as you go, dealing with letters/logo elements individually, so you don't lose track of what marks you're moving onto next
 

JBurton

Signtologist
So if they don't mind you installing it with studs:
layout letters for routing upside down, place marks at 0 depth
place acrylic blocks, pads, or drill and tap for studs
make pattern with stud positions on letters
tape to wall and use either a drill or just a handled screwdriver to punch holes
profit?
 

FASTSIGNS

New Member
How do you keep the letters from moving while you lay the transfer tape?
Just like you would transer RTA. Pull the tape with a little air under and lay onto of letters. We just make sure the bottom of the tape is level/lined up with the bottom of the letters.
 

FASTSIGNS

New Member
Earlier this year there was a discussion on how others installed ACM or PVC cut out letters. I didn't have any photos of my process, only the finial results. I always just seem to get the job going and forget to photo some steps. Well here is a few I remembered to do last week.
This job was some brushed aluminum on 6mm pvc and router cut. I plot out a paper pattern and tape to table. Then I take some old 8518 liner and place over the paper pattern and tape to table. I then put the VHB tape onto the back of the letters. Now I take the backing off the VHB taped letters and place them on the liner over the pattern. When this step is finished I pull the paper pattern out from under the liner and transfer tape across all the letters. I use 2 layers ( thanks SignBrad ). I put a level line across the job in a easy spot from leveling out at the job. When I get to the location, I just tape on the wall in place, level and center up and then pull the liner from behind the letters. Most all the work is done in the shop saving time on the location.
I have used this method for letters 3mm up to 12mm. I have used this method for 12mm x 12''tall letters that run out 8 feet.
I thought maybe some people could use this trick and its super easy. I have a few accounts that like 6mm copper letters and logos that are smaller then 36'' and I just provide it to them put together like this and they can do it on their own.
Merry Christmas

Attached Files:
Yes, this is how we do it. Good pics. So easy and letters are always in their correct placement. Super fast too!
 

Chris Keena

New Member
Any vinyl or paint mask will do. Don't pull the release liner though, just tape it up as if it is paper. VHB should be plenty strong, and can't hurt to use silicone. And for your template, don't forget to add a stroke or make it a 1/32" or 1/16" larger than your cut letters. Stud mount is the best for letters your size, but if you're not ordering from Gemini, it's not necessary.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Has anyone ever tried a digital projector?
Never tried digital, but we had a Movie Tavern with a 10+ color mural that we printed a transparency and used an old school teacher's projector for. Worked beautifully.
The national wanted to send me a machine pounced pattern, and I've told them repeatedly to buy an electro pounce and manually trace it(not that it would have worked, since the art had strokes at 1/4" or so). Every time we would do an exterior mural for On The Border they would send us a pattern and we'd just save ourselves the headache and electro pounce it ourselves.

I'd be interested to see if that would work, though I'd imagine you'd need to put an 8 1/2"x11" on the wall to properly register size, and you'd need a tripod or something tall enough to point dead center of the install area...
 

MGB_LE

New Member
I've attached a pic of how we do all our dimensional (tape/silicon) install for the past 15 years. The letters are put on thier paper pattern, then transfer taped on top, then flipped over as a whole showing the backside. The mounting tape is applied on the back. The letters are in their correct position. The whole is loaded onto coroplast (or any other sacraficial material) in their finished position (but in reverse with the back side showing). After the silicon is applied, the whole coroplast is used to put up the whole text/logo. The bottom of the coroplast is the straight edge to use for leveling. The coroplast is pushed on the front so the tape and silicon seal. Coroplast removed, transfer tape removed and all is done. I know it sounds complicated, but the install take 10 minutes at the customer site. All our new employees are shocked at how easy and accurate this method is.
Is there a video of this process you'd be willing to share? We might practice one some walls at our plant before adopting the process for clients, We usually farm out the installs but as dept manager I'd like to grow our skills.
 
Top