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[Lightbulb88]

Solventinkjet.com is an active trusted member here, so I doubt they'd sell you a used or refurb one. It's quite unlikely you'd get 2 defective heads at once. If you rule out the cables, my guess might be the board those cables go into.

Zoogee World, I was my ribbons, thank you.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Thanks for following up, thread might be useful to others in the future. =)

 

[Lightbulb88]

Thanks for following up, thread might be useful to others in the future. =)

Gotcha!

 

[Lightbulb88]

Hello, I have a roland versacamm sp-300v and I had lost color on one print head, the magenta and yellow side. I replaced the head, cables, cap station, and dampers. I recovered the color. Now I have another issue, when I put things back together, the manifold on the black broke. I purchased another manifold and I didn't get color on the black and cyan head afterwards. I then purchased a new head for that side as well, changed the dampers too. I still have no color on the black side where I did before the manifold broke. I checked the fuse and it was good. I have no idea where to go from here, does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Lightbulb88

 

[damonCA21]

Did you check the correct fuse? It is the small one mounted on the mainboard, not the ones to the main power supply. If this is ok, also test the transistors. It could also be a bad head carriage board. When you do a head cleaning are you getting black ink coming out into the waste bottle?

 

[Jim Hancock]

These might help... The multimeter needs to be on the ohms section.

 

[Lightbulb88]

Did you check the correct fuse? It is the small one mounted on the mainboard, not the ones to the main power supply. If this is ok, also test the transistors. It could also be a bad head carriage board. When you do a head cleaning are you getting black ink coming out into the waste bottle?

Thank you for the tip, I am out of town and will try this when I return. I will give an update... thank you again!

 

[Lightbulb88]

These might help... The multimeter needs to be on the ohms section.

Thank you for the tip, I am out of town and will try this when I return. I will give an update... thank you again!

 

[Lightbulb88]

Thank you for the tip, I am out of town and will try this when I return. I will give an update... thank you again!

Jim Hancock, I just got back from traveling, thank you for your tip. I checked my fuse with my multimeter and the f3 fuse is bad. I will attempt to put an inline glass fuse on the existing fuse. I hope that works, I have not found a video of someone doing that as of yet.

 

[Lightbulb88]

Thank you for the tip, I am out of town and will try this when I return. I will give an update... thank you again!

Thank you for the tip, I am out of town and will try this when I return. I will give an update... thank you again!

Hello damonCA21, I found that my f3 fuse is bad. I did test all of the transistors and they are all good. Thank you for your tip.
Lightbulb88

 

[damonCA21]

Hello damonCA21, I found that my f3 fuse is bad. I did test all of the transistors and they are all good. Thank you for your tip.
Lightbulb88

No problem. If you arent confident replacing the fuse for an inline one I do this as a service for customers ( replace all of them with inline glass ones in holders ). If you are doing it yourself you need to be very careful removing the old one as it is easy to burn the pads off or cause other damage. You won't be able to get a clip in holder that will fit as the glass fuses are 20mm long, you need one of the one with wires on the end and a plastic cylinder in the centre to hold and isolate it so you can have the fuse not on the board.

 

[Lightbulb88]

No problem. If you arent confident replacing the fuse for an inline one I do this as a service for customers ( replace all of them with inline glass ones in holders ). If you are doing it yourself you need to be very careful removing the old one as it is easy to burn the pads off or cause other damage. You won't be able to get a clip in holder that will fit as the glass fuses are 20mm long, you need one of the one with wires on the end and a plastic cylinder in the centre to hold and isolate it so you can have the fuse not on the board.

damonCA21, are you saying that I can't solder the wire to the end of the old one in place? I should remove the small fuse instead.

 

[Jim Hancock]

Another option is to solder the correct new fuse on top of the old one without removing it. Removing and replacing the old fuse is difficult to access without accidently touching the hot iron to surrounding components, especially the connectors.

 

[damonCA21]

Another option is to solder the correct new fuse on top of the old one without removing it. Removing and replacing the old fuse is difficult to access without accidently touching the hot iron to surrounding components, especially the connectors.

True, but then if it blows again then you have to solder another one on top. I prefer using the glass fuse holders as changing a fuse in the future takes 30 seconds and the fuses are 1/20th of the price

 

[damonCA21]

damonCA21, are you saying that I can't solder the wire to the end of the old one in place? I should remove the small fuse instead.

You can solder it onto the old fuse but it is a bit of a bodge. It is also quite hard to do this as the area you are soldering onto is very small and quite hard to access with the old fuse sill in place. It is possible though if you have an iron with a very small tip and are very careful
You also need to make sure that when the old fuse blew it didn't damage any of the tracks from the fuse pads, otherwise it won't make a connection to the rest of the board.
Removing the old fuse gives you a nice large pad to solder the wires for the fuse holder onto.

 

[Jim Hancock]

I prefer using the glass fuse holders as changing a fuse in the future takes 30 seconds and the fuses are 1/20th of the price

True, as a fuse is a fuse, as long as they are the same blow rating. Roland finally figured it out on later models and used sockets. Unfortunately, the pad spacing won't allow a retro fit to sockets on the SP-300. Your idea is the best for these older models with soldered fuses.

 

[Lightbulb88]

Thank you Jim Hancock and DamonCA21

 

[Lightbulb88]

True, as a fuse is a fuse, as long as they are the same blow rating. Roland finally figured it out on later models and used sockets. Unfortunately, the pad spacing won't allow a retro fit to sockets on the SP-300. Your idea is the best for these older models with soldered fuses.

Hello everyone, Thank you for the tip on soldering the 1.6a fuse on top of the f3 fuse on my Roland versacamm sp-300v. I successfully done that and now have color coming back. However, this pic below is how my test print came out. I've done a few cleanings, don't know what to do next. Can someone please advise, I greatly appreciate it.

Lightbulb88

 

[Zoogee World]

Hello everyone, Thank you for the tip on soldering the 1.6a fuse on top of the f3 fuse on my Roland versacamm sp-300v. I successfully done that and now have color coming back. However, this pic below is how my test print came out. I've done a few cleanings, don't know what to do next. Can someone please advise, I greatly appreciate it.

Lightbulb88

There doesn't appear to be a photo. Could you repost please?

 

[Lightbulb88]

There doesn't appear to be a photo. Could you repost please?