How would you seam this sign?

[gnubler]

Working on a roadside sign that needs a new face installed. We managed to get a tape up there and think that the panel measures 7 ft wide x 4 1/2 ft tall (it's up on a 12 ft tall pylon, won't know the exact size until we take it down). What substrate would you use? MDO and 6mm ACM comes in 8x4 sheets only, leaving an extra 6" to seam in somehow. What material would you use and how would you seam it together? Thanks!

 

[StarSign]

Alumalite, not a pretty edge but.

 

[Z SIGNS]

I would cut it out of 5x8 something to avoid a seam.

 

[Gino]

You can get acm in 60" widths. It's only 3mm, but that shouldn't be a problem for something like that.

 

[gnubler]

I thought 3mm might bow too much. There's no center cross bar, as you can see. I think what's up there now is 1/2" plywood.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

6mm comes in 5x10. It's heavy as shit.

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[Val47]

We've used 5x10 ACM, 4mm. It's way more expensive, almost double $ . But it exists.

 

[gnubler]

My supplier doesn't carry it, and according to my sales rep 10x5 anything thicker than 3mm doesn't exist. Further research is required.

Where can I get MDO/Signboard in a 10x5 sheet? The existing sign looks to be at least 50-60 yrs old, maybe wood was bigger back then.

 

[Proofread People]

Working on a roadside sign that needs a new face installed. We managed to get a tape up there and think that the panel measures 7 ft wide x 4 1/2 ft tall (it's up on a 12 ft tall pylon, won't know the exact size until we take it down). What substrate would you use? MDO and 6mm ACM comes in 8x4 sheets only, leaving an extra 6" to seam in somehow. What material would you use and how would you seam it together? Thanks!

View attachment 154497

3mm ACM comes in a 5'x10', hope you have a good template for your CNC cut.

 

[Gino]

Does that center piece with the purple and red stripes get removed ?? If so, you aren't even gonna use 6mm. If that's wood in there now, no way it's 60 years old. With that amount of rust, the wood would've fallen out long ago.

Your best bet is to go up there and find out what you're up against and then make an educated decision, instead of spinning wheels for nothing.

 

[ChaseO]

I can get up to 5x12 in 6mm. Its out there. I used to have some 5x16 Alucobond 21... you wanna talk about heavy

 

[Proofread People]

agree, best go up there and see what you're dealing with

 

[Val47]

My supplier doesn't carry it, and according to my sales rep 10x5 anything thicker than 3mm doesn't exist. Further research is required.

Where can I get MDO/Signboard in a 10x5 sheet? The existing sign looks to be at least 50-60 yrs old, maybe wood was bigger back then.

I mispoke... The 5x10 is 3mm. I would think it would still work? Sun supply stocks it.

 

[visual800]

I wouldnt use 3mil for that, how about an 063 aluminum or 080 at the least

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

You could also take two 3mm sheets and stick them together with VHB & Lexel or a two part welding glue.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

That's what I'm doing Monday... sign frame already has a 080 aluminum in it, nice and sturdy and no need to replace it. I'm slapping 3mm ACM over it and it will be even stronger.

 

[gnubler]

Thanks for the input, and I had some of the same ideas...maybe fastening two 3mm panels together (Val, I already checked with Sun and they do stock 10x5 sheets of 3mm). Whatever is up there now is probably 1/2" thick and there are metal tabs around the frame creating a channel to hold the panel in place, so whatever I end up using has to fit snugly in the channel. (see this close up image)

Gino - I already quoted running two lift rentals on this job: one to go pull the old panel down and measure, and another to install a new one. The structure itself is over 50 yrs old, and I'm guessing the current sign face is at least 20-25 yrs old based on the looks of it.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

How does the face come out? Almost looks like they set one side, bumped the face up to it then welded angle on the other side to hold the face? If that's the case, your gonna have to take the angle off one side to remove the face. At that point, the thickness won't matter cuz you can put it back however you want.
Who is gonna paint that? Bet that thing is gonna be in worse shape than it looks like from the ground.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

You could do a rubbing of the frame instead of removing the face. Or just measure the middle and edges and then when you bring the new sign back on-site, take the top one a trace the radius and use a jigsaw to cut in the field.

 

[gnubler]

How does the face come out? Almost looks like they set one side, bumped the face up to it then welded angle on the other side to hold the face? If that's the case, your gonna have to take the angle off one side to remove the face. At that point, the thickness won't matter cuz you can put it back however you want.
Who is gonna paint that? Bet that thing is gonna be in worse shape than it looks like from the ground.

On the other side the tabs are screwed on. We'll be cutting them off with a grinder.