Hi Cosmin, can you help me please - I have the same problem and I can't solve it. Same error 0010 with the same problem - does not connect. I changed the oscillators indicated by you. Now I ask you - does the Realtek chip have to be changed? Because after I changed the oscillators, nothing changed - the same error. I'm from Constata, maybe we can talk by phone or WhatsApp - 0040721289533
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Need Help Network chip Roland VP540
- Thread starter Krister Koppari
- Start date
to me, the realtek chip would be the most likely suspect.
second most likely is the "feed throughs" between the layers of the board
IF IT WERE MINE. i would pull the system board and take to someone who invested in one of the "ovens" used to fix all those Nvdia boards that needed to be
re-flow soldered. IN MY EXPERIENCE, that will often cure this type of problem. MOST TIMES when the realtek chip goes bad, it is bad, not intermittent.
ONE OTHER THOUGHT. is the RJ45 8 pin jack good? none of the pins bent? or touching each other. you can spray a good zero residue contect cleaner (or just plain old isopropyl into the connector. AFTER WAITING 15 MINUTES AFTER TURNING THE POWER OFF & WAITING 15 MINUTES AGAIN, BEFORE POWERING UP
regarding the oscillator, you just need to scope it (do you have access to an oscilloscope or frequency counter?) if you were in US i would loan you one. biggest pain in the ass to send something like that internationally & convince customs it is being loaned and not subject to an import fee
have we Considered simply adding a fan to increase airflow across the troublesome part of the board?
at times we have “unmounted” (CAREFULLY) the board, adding a rubber O-RING under the board where each screw goes into the standoff? Then do not completely tighten the screws. Sometimes the problem is the board flexing as it heats and cools, not a component failure.
you can carefully troubleshoot with a can of “freeze spray” with a straw, cooling one component at a time.
remember what a friend once told me, “this is more voodoo than science” but, I saw a client once cut a small, hole in a cover & use a quick spray to get the machine printing again, UNTIL THE NEXT EPISODE (not a great solution, but it can be a godsend when the printer stops in the middle of a job, since you are already living with the intermittent.
the “flip side” of the above suggestion may be more to the point. a little puff of warm air might restore the machine to printing
at times we have “unmounted” (CAREFULLY) the board, adding a rubber O-RING under the board where each screw goes into the standoff? Then do not completely tighten the screws. Sometimes the problem is the board flexing as it heats and cools, not a component failure.
you can carefully troubleshoot with a can of “freeze spray” with a straw, cooling one component at a time.
remember what a friend once told me, “this is more voodoo than science” but, I saw a client once cut a small, hole in a cover & use a quick spray to get the machine printing again, UNTIL THE NEXT EPISODE (not a great solution, but it can be a godsend when the printer stops in the middle of a job, since you are already living with the intermittent.
the “flip side” of the above suggestion may be more to the point. a little puff of warm air might restore the machine to printing
The VP does already have a case fan in it to cool the motherboard area
so, you think a little more wouldn't help?
my point was, sometimes just running the machine with the cover removed kept the machine cool enough that the problem never reappeared. (or
at least not for quite a while). not a perfect answer, but, sometimes a holding action is the best you can do
I have a VP540. I looked at many threads from different forums and i have come to the conclusion that i need a new board. I had the oscillating chips changed and the problem remained. I was also given a donor board when i purchased the printer a couple months ago. the donor board did the same thing.
The only way to get more than 6 inches to print, is to keep a heater on the printer. I have a small box heater about the same height of the board location. the back cover removed. There's only a little over 4k hours on the unit, so i'd hate to see this machine stop now.
The guy that changed the oscillating chips, (my old boss), said i could use the freeze technique to identify the problematic part. But i do believe its a stressed board. Baking it might fix the issue, similar to the old HP DV model laptops when the GPU failed. but is it worth the risk?
The only way to get more than 6 inches to print, is to keep a heater on the printer. I have a small box heater about the same height of the board location. the back cover removed. There's only a little over 4k hours on the unit, so i'd hate to see this machine stop now.
The guy that changed the oscillating chips, (my old boss), said i could use the freeze technique to identify the problematic part. But i do believe its a stressed board. Baking it might fix the issue, similar to the old HP DV model laptops when the GPU failed. but is it worth the risk?
I think in most cases it is easier to get a replacement board. Once you have paid people to try various fixes it can be easier and a lot quicker. I know some have had luck with repairs, but it really depends on what is causing the problem. Heating and cooling can be a temporary fix, but once they start failing it probably won't work for that long.
If you are interested I do have a tested and fully working mainboard in stock. This is the OEM Roland board ( note if you see any new boards being advertised for sale, they are not genuine, they are chinese copies. Roland sold out of these boards years ago and don't make new ones. The chinese ones may work properly, or may not and aren't built to the same quality as the originals )
The printer it came in on was tested in two 4 hour printing sessions sending multiple jobs and had no issues with the print stopping. The previous owner also reported no network issues, he just took it out of use due to two damaged heads after a head strike.
Feel free to DM if you are interested. I can ship worldwide and take paypal for payment so you are fully covered.
it's funny, i have been doing networking since the late 1980's (before microsoft had a product to link 2 pc's together.
i have NEVER seen a network failure because of an oscillator not running or running off frequency
the thing to do there is to put a frequency counter on the crystal or the test point for that circuit (that's where the service manual might come in handy
I SAY MIGHT because they never give you enough info to do board level repair
basic question. if you plug a short cable into the network jack and plug into a network switch or a laptop, does it indicate that the interface is workiing (does the led light?
i could let you borrow a network analyzer, we have a few spares.
I don't disagree. The guy that swapped it didnt have much faith it would fix it. I decided to do it because some people have had success. Luckily for me, the attempt to "repair" wasn't too costly since he's an old friend. He did have the schematics as well. His employee, my old coworker, did come by to help me swap the board (2 sets of eyes are better than one lol) we did a pass through network, connected directly, even tried a crossover cable. The only thing that actually allows the printer to continue to print, is heat.
As for the Network LED light, yes there's always a light, even after it "loses" connection.... It seems once Versa doesn't see the printer, it automatically deletes the job in progress. Luckily, Cut only jobs don't need to buffer. Vector files are not big to transmit.
Edit: I also did a ping test to the printer while connected directly. Oddly enough, when the print stopped, sometimes the ping would time out, sometimes the ping would continue talking to the printer and no drops.
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FIRST disable power management. EDIT POWER PLAN, set to NEVER, NEVER, IF A LAPTOP DO ALL 4 DROP DOWNS
then go to device manager and find network on the pc, go to power management and remove the 2 check marks
"allow computer to turn off this device to save power"
NEXT try an old trick we used in the 1990's (it often works!)
leave a perpetual ping running
open cmd
ping 192.168.1.116 -t (substitute your printer ip)
update the firmware on your router if needed.
let me know what happens.
then go to device manager and find network on the pc, go to power management and remove the 2 check marks
"allow computer to turn off this device to save power"
NEXT try an old trick we used in the 1990's (it often works!)
leave a perpetual ping running
open cmd
ping 192.168.1.116 -t (substitute your printer ip)
update the firmware on your router if needed.
let me know what happens.
I have also found they can be a lot more stable if rather than running from a computer, through a router with other things connected and on to the printer, if you just use a dedicated pc or cheap laptop and connect the printer just to that via its network connection it can help.
I run my VP300 from a £100 win7 laptop I bought on Ebay. The only thing installed is versaworks. It also has no internet connection to it, just the printer connected to its network. Artwork is created on my main PC, then just saved to a thumb drive and loaded onto the laptop to print.
I think sometimes with a router with lots of stuff connected, signals from other things can block the printer and VW seems to drop the job rather than continuing it.
I run my VP300 from a £100 win7 laptop I bought on Ebay. The only thing installed is versaworks. It also has no internet connection to it, just the printer connected to its network. Artwork is created on my main PC, then just saved to a thumb drive and loaded onto the laptop to print.
I think sometimes with a router with lots of stuff connected, signals from other things can block the printer and VW seems to drop the job rather than continuing it.
No, roland sold out of them years ago and don't make new ones. There are sellers advertising new boards, but all of these are chinese copies that don't have a great track record of working properly
haha you were probably typing the reply as i did the edit on my post regarding the ping test. As for the power management settings, thats the first thing i did when i got the printer for the screen saver. I had also came across a post in a forum somewhere, probably here, with the network power management changes suggested, as you just did
Firmware has been updated as well
No router, direct connection with a 6' RJ45 to a laptop. I even tried making my own with Cat6.
Definitely board replacement time I reckon. As Netsol said it may not even be a chip problem, it could be the traces inside the board and that is pretty much impossible to diagnosehaha you were probably typing the reply as i did the edit on my post regarding the ping test. As for the power management settings, thats the first thing i did when i got the printer for the screen saver. I had also came across a post in a forum somewhere, probably here, with the network power management changes suggested, as you just did
Firmware has been updated as well
No router, direct connection with a 6' RJ45 to a laptop. I even tried making my own with Cat6.
that is my exact thought. Due to the stressed board, traces inside broke. Heat makes it expand or bend under pressure and temporary makes the traces work.
Like i mentioned above, i thought about baking the board like the old HP laptops... but im afraid it could ruin it, then i'd be forced to buy a main board.
Yep. Sometimes finding a fault on a board can be easy if its a main component has failed, then you get the ones where it is a trace or a via or something hidden under a chip. Baking a board only really works for reflowing bad solder connections, it rarely helps with bad traces. Personally I wouldn't bother going down this route as it would be throwing more money at it and is unlikely to work
The other BIG problem is if you bake the board and mess it up and cause shorts, when you plug it back into the printer it can take out other boards so you can end up pretty much writing the printer off