• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Questions about Painting a Wall Sign (First Attempt)

Graphics.Atl

New Member
I have a customer that wants me to paint a very simple two color (black and white) sign one of her exterior walls. The wall is wood, almost looks like a tongue and groove style board. In between each panel is a 1/4" "V". The wall is painted white with an exterior grade semi-gloss latex. I plan on using some Oramask as well. Can I clean the area real well and mask off the areas that need to remain white (as the wall is already white) and use black latex, and be done? If not, I have been doing some searches on here and think I have an idea of the process but would love some feedback. I was thinking of masking the rectangle and then using a kilz product designed for outdoor and to stick to smooth surfaces to prime the area(should I prep sand the existing latex?). Then I was going to paint the area black (ronan or 1-shot?), and finally lay mask and stencil the white text and border. Does this sound right? Can I use all latex paints? What type of brushes/roller should I use? How long should I let the black dry before laying my mask? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • Uptowne Design RTR Sign2.jpg
    Uptowne Design RTR Sign2.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 173

Jillbeans

New Member
Being a sign painter I hate to dissuade you from attempting to do this.
But if it were me I would just make her an Alumalite/vinyl sign.
It would be so much easier, less labor etc.

Those are awful thin letters to be painted on an irregular surface, and will probably ebnd up looking funny if you are not used to painting.
That surface (looks like T-111) sucks in paint like a sponge.
In my experience, working with a mask over latex is pretty much just asking to peel up the background paint, and you will never get a good crisp edge on that surface.

If you want to tuff it out and paint, you can either project the image and draw it out with charcoal, or make a pounce pattern (the graphite powder will make a hard to clean mess on that surface) and paint with Ronan and a fitch.

Like I said, Alumalite may cost you more in materials but you will be saving yourself hours of headache. Practice painting on your own garage wall, that type of thing, before you try doing it for a paying job.
Love....Jill
 

skyhigh

New Member
buy a 5x8 sheet of black dibond. You will have one seam up the middle.

There is no way you will paint the small letters on that T-111.
 

JR's

New Member
I would do what Jill and sky high said.

Why did the client suggest paint? Is it because she has to have paint for code or she thinks it will be cheaper painting it on the building.

A side note, I would rather paint a old brick wall then texture 11.

JR :)
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
You have just about everything going against you if you paint these panels as is.

Your paint job will only be as good as the paint job which exists on that wall presently.

As the others have said.... an overlay of whatever material you choose will look better, last longer and cost less to do.


Also, I would re-think my layout.
 

G-Artist

New Member
I started out doing walls @ 15 and I am now fully eligible for SS. I doubt that even in
my prime I would do a direct paint.

Back then, as now, I would paint that on a suitable substrate in the shop and hang it.

The simple way is to prime, lightly sand the prime if necessary, 2 coats of white, properly
apply mask (computers and cutters are wonderful) then do your black. Both One Shot and
Ronan are good products. Just use the same brand for both the white and black top coats.

Done right, that sign will last for years. Probably longer than the customer will be in business.

BTW, not a big fan of KILZ in any way shape or form. If they would take part of their ad budget
and put it into product development it might be worth using at some point in time.

My 2¢.
 

Graphics.Atl

New Member
WOW, Thanks to everyone for the advice. The customer stated that code is a wood sign, so it was a choice between painting the wall directly or doing MDO. I was thinking it would be easier to paint the wall directly, I am seeing that is not the case. I am glad I asked the question. I just called my supplier and all I can get is 1/2" 4x8 MDO. I think I will try to get them to do the alumalite or dibond route. Thank you again.
 

RebeckaR

New Member
In your picture it looks like you are running the edges of the sign right up to the edges of the area.
Leave yourself a little space, make the height of the sign 24" and get the whole thing from one 4 x 8. It will be more cost effective and it will look better.
 

Graphics.Atl

New Member
In your picture it looks like you are running the edges of the sign right up to the edges of the area.
Leave yourself a little space, make the height of the sign 24" and get the whole thing from one 4 x 8. It will be more cost effective and it will look better.

That was the plan before the idea to paint came up.
 

OldPaint

New Member
ask your supplier if they have MAX-METAL or ALUMICORE!!!!! BOTH come prepainted, are lighter then MDO and dont stand off the wall as far.
 

Freehandan

New Member
Well, If you really want to do the job and go through a learning experience that will only make you informed and stronger. Then just use black paint of any kind to paint the box. Wait till it's dry-Either in 20 minutes to an hour or so for acrylic(depending on the humidity of where you are) or from 4 hours until the next day for 1Shot and why not the same for any other oil. If there are crevices, you will want them to be dry. When the black is done, Do whatever you can, the best you can, to do the text and border. Apply a few coates if needed, don't thin the paint if the surface is really bumpy or much at all for your first bunch of jobs. When you are finished with them, use the black to touch up and that is it. If you have to, you may touch up both colors a few times. Make the customer happy, and tell them to tell anyone else that it costs alot of money because it was rough. And you know it and did it. All you. You will have that forever. But like starting a tattoo, once you start- It;s ALL YOU.Till the End.
Don't be scared, it's only paint and can be painted over. tell the customer that it is not finished untill it is finished and you will allow them to adress and discrepancies you need to take care of. You must help them believe Luke. So they don't go the 'other' way.
May the Force be with you.
Art is an infinate source. Believe, and it will Be Live.
 

Dave Drane

New Member
:help
Well, If you really want to do the job and go through a learning experience that will only make you informed and stronger. Then just use black paint of any kind to paint the box. Wait till it's dry-Either in 20 minutes to an hour or so for acrylic(depending on the humidity of where you are) or from 4 hours until the next day for 1Shot and why not the same for any other oil. If there are crevices, you will want them to be dry. When the black is done, Do whatever you can, the best you can, to do the text and border. Apply a few coates if needed, don't thin the paint if the surface is really bumpy or much at all for your first bunch of jobs. When you are finished with them, use the black to touch up and that is it. If you have to, you may touch up both colors a few times. Make the customer happy, and tell them to tell anyone else that it costs alot of money because it was rough. And you know it and did it. All you. You will have that forever. But like starting a tattoo, once you start- It;s ALL YOU.Till the End.
Don't be scared, it's only paint and can be painted over. tell the customer that it is not finished untill it is finished and you will allow them to adress and discrepancies you need to take care of. You must help them believe Luke. So they don't go the 'other' way.
May the Force be with you.
Art is an infinate source. Believe, and it will Be Live.

:help Really, what is the point of dragging this post up?? Do you not think he would have the job done and the money in the bank 5 months ago???:frustrated:
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
:help

:help Really, what is the point of dragging this post up?? Do you not think he would have the job done and the money in the bank 5 months ago???:frustrated:



:ROFLMAO: I was thinking the same thing. Not to mention, the advice didn't seem that spot on, either. :rolleyes:
 

Freehandan

New Member
Well Well- Spot on?? That's dumb. I just got on this... site, And this thread is the third one I see under hand made signs. Don't really look to be honest. Time don't matter. The digital world is all fake. Some people play sims, some drink alcohol, some like to gang up on people they are intimidated by because of their confidence. That's o.k. You're not real to me. Reality is....there are two replies to my one. What does that mean? I went top school for advertising. Would you like to buy stock in me?:Coffee:
 

Dave Drane

New Member
Well Well- Spot on?? That's dumb. I just got on this... site, And this thread is the third one I see under hand made signs. Don't really look to be honest. Time don't matter. The digital world is all fake. Some people play sims, some drink alcohol, some like to gang up on people they are intimidated by because of their confidence. That's o.k. You're not real to me. Reality is....there are two replies to my one. What does that mean? I went top school for advertising. Would you like to buy stock in me?:Coffee:

Well if you have eyes and a brain, please use them.. Totally wierd :doh:
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Free........

Settle down, chill a little or whatever it is that you might do to calm yourself. When you get like this you make absolutely no sense whatsoever. Your #17 post makes you look worse than your #14 post.

Stop, collect your thoughts and then respond. If you do this, we might not be all that imaginary to you. I invite you to try it.
 
Top