• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Summa F1612

Rickey J

New Member
Moved some wires and now we are getting these updated power specs.
fdee6b8f521df0881b7412eed8b5a862.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
all 3 voltages should be the same, why is 1 15v higher?

there are probably "local voltage" jumpers to adjust the stepdown to your 115 or 220 control voltage.

full disclosure, i have NEVER TOUCHED an f1612 but have connected tons of 3 phase equipment.
there is normally a multitap to move and adjust the voltage coming out (208, 220, 240, etc)

you may be tripping an over voltage protect of some sort
It has dip switches inside the panel which adjust the capacitors. The easiest thing to do is call American rotary and they will walk you through adjustments until the power is balanced properly. Then he would obviously need to get the machine running and check them again. Here's where you adjust it, this panel burnt up last year, it's an adx20 but pretty much the same thing
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220130_161925854.jpg
    PXL_20220130_161925854.jpg
    627.3 KB · Views: 100

Rickey J

New Member
Here is a photo of the jumpers on the machine. I also forgot to mention this machine was hooked up as 208+N from the original owner.
061dbac31a2efd8c141e1e9dcfa8fcef.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Rickey J

New Member
Here is a photo of the jumpers on the machine. I also forgot to mention this machine was hooked up as 208+N from the original owner.
061dbac31a2efd8c141e1e9dcfa8fcef.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay. So, we moved the top jumper on the photo above. Everything has powered on and it’s working. It’s now showing up in Axis control but I am getting a emergency button error.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
Okay. So, we moved the top jumper on the photo above. Everything has powered on and it’s working. It’s now showing up in Axis control but I am getting a emergency button error.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are any of the 4 emergency stop buttons pressed in? It's not always obvious, give them a twist
 

Rickey J

New Member
Does anyone know if these jumpers are correct? This is the area where we moved the top jumper and are now getting an EMERGENCY BUTTON PRESSED” on axis control
31d2bd032d531c8422f83123e98c18e8.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

netsol

Active Member
Someone mentioned earlier, the neutral wire as well as a redundant ground.
The lavk of a neutral connection, if applicable, may look just like an emergency stop condition on a properly wired machine. The neutral is probably lifted when you trigger an emergency stop
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Someone mentioned earlier, the neutral wire as well as a redundant ground.
The lavk of a neutral connection, if applicable, may look just like an emergency stop condition on a properly wired machine. The neutral is probably lifted when you trigger an emergency stop
Wouldn't that be a bad way to run a switch, potentially dangerous? If there's 120 on it, I don't see how it would work without the neutral. Maybe it has something to do with you switching from 208 to 230. Now that I'm thinking about it, I thought 230/460 requires a transformer to get 120 where as 208 does not. I don't feel like reading up on it but your answers potentially here:
 
Last edited:

netsol

Active Member
I have seen quite a few cnc's do just that including one we own. (Regarding the emergency stop.)

There is no need for a neutral, in a polyphase circuit, unless it is necessary to comply with local codes. (The kind written by bureaucrats, not electrical engineers. In a polyphase circuit there is no neutral, the voltage is identical, each leg RELATIVE to the other 2. There is no polarity, so no neutral
 

netsol

Active Member
Wouldn't that be a bad way to run a switch, potentially dangerous? If there's 120 on it, I don't see how it would work without the neutral. Maybe it has something to do with you switching from 208 to 230. I don't feel like reading up on it but your answers potentially here:
Actually 3 hots, if you look at the sine wave, they alternate high & low, 60 times per second

The phase difference is the important part. This is why you can reverse a 3 phase motor by switching ANY of the 2 "hots". Also why it starts under tremendous load without a start capacitor (and why it can restart without time delay, no waiting for a thermal switch to cool off)
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Actually 3 hots, if you look at the sine wave, they alternate high & low, 60 times per second

The phase difference is the important part. This is why you can reverse a 3 phase motor by switching ANY of the 2 "hots". Also why it starts under tremendous load without a start capacitor (and why it can restart without time delay, no waiting for a thermal switch to cool off)
Yeah, I get 3 phase. That plug has 3 hots and a ground, 208 uses the high leg for the return/neutral correct? Which is why you can pull 120 off of 1 leg. On 230/460 it's all equal like 240 1 phase where you don't need a neutral unless you want to pull 120 off of it, like an RV plug which has 4 prongs but a welder plug has 3 because there's no need for a neutral.
 
Top