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the jv3 prints so many to correspond to the different print mode Find the upper and lower lines that match up most closely together. Enter each variable in the control panel. This should be done each time your tech calibrates your printer as a last step.

As the years go by, we learn more and more about the printers. It used to be thought that more heat helped, then no heat. At the moment, all of the people in my organization are recommending the 32-35c range, individual printer/ink sets are going to vary this a touch, but that setting seems to...

this is a calibration issue, contact your local service tech to get it recalibrated.

this is a subtank sensor error, most likely it's not working 100% correctly.

actually from what I'm seeing, this is an end of life message for the priming assemblies.

cap station assembly/motor has gone bad these are the two most common reasons for this error.

actually, that doesn't look like a bad printhead so much as an electrical problem. If I had to guess ( and I do) I'd say your sensor strip is dirty or has ink drops on it. Clean the sensor strip is diluted isopropyl alcohol

I agree with you, especially on something like these dampers, saved a couple bucks per ( which adds up when you're buying hundreds) but the savings involved were eaten up by the return trips to pull the stupid things. You don't know until you try, and this is sometimes the cost of doing...

your heat ( again depending on the type of ink you run, but in general) should be between 32-35c If the banding crops up again, try switching to uni directional mode ( what firmware is loaded on your printer?) keep in mind that uni-directional slow is faster then bi-directional slow for...

color gamut for your printer actually depends on a few things, type of ink being one of them. Oranges, greys, and just about any "bright" color are the most affected. In all the years I ran a jv3, I never once ran an orange that I was pleased with ( Triangle inks, flexi 7.6) Personally I would...

I was afraid of that, there'd been a rash of it for a while, The good news is that they seem to have corrected the issue, and all batches of ink after end of October beginning of November seem to be fine. If you are feeling squirrely, you can try to manually clean the affected channel in your...

That is a loose head data cable most likely. Turn off your printer. unplug your printer Cycle the power switch to insure there's no power left in the system. remove the damper to the affected head ( make sure you pull straight up and don't break the nipples on the manifold to the head)...

WrapperX update on this situation? I've heard that Lyson inks have been having some issues, but the batches coming out since November had the previous problems resolved ( colors involved with problems seem to be cyan and magenta) have you changed out ink carts? Swapped dampers channel 1 and 2...

I have a client doing this, while it's not perfect, it DOES work. In his case, instead of running a cleaning cart in the LmLc slot, it's just a dead head ( which I'm sure will cause problems sometime in the future) It makes calibrating the printer a pain tho, your print quality will degrade...

There is actually negligible difference in print quality between thick and think with the jv3 series printers. The best way to figure out if it's in the correct position tho, is to reinstall the height adjustment lever, then once you are sure it's in the high position that you want, secure it...

Since you are running a jv3, you don't have drop position adjustment. Check your bidirectional calibrations. The halo effect are the result of incomplete calibrations. Recalibrate your printer completely and it should go away.

In the JV3 series, one of the first checks it does on bootup is checking the wiper, if the wiper won't move, the system errors out and won't continue. Try this; turn off your printer manually move the carriage assembly to the left past the wiper station manually pull the wiper forward to see...

If you haven't changed dampers in all this time, I agree that changing them is a logical first step. While I agree that you shouldn't be overpaying for parts, I would suggest that you get quality parts from a known trusted source. I've had dozens of dampers go bad ( from faulty manufacturing)...

I'm not one to go about talking bad about any products, and while I'm sure that Sepiax is a great company, I did a conversion on a jv3 about 2-3 months ago, the heads, which while using OEM ink looked just fine, when finally converted to Sepiax, were all types of deflected. The conversion...

If you need someone to come look at your printer ( service ) drop me a pm and we'll see what we can do.