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red halo around black typically indicates a calibration issue, a little tweak and it will go away.

lots of talk about this in various places, but personally until I see cold hard facts, I'm going with, there is minimal ( if any) difference in ink consumption when you change print modes (4/8/16 pass), you aren't laying down more ink, it just takes more passes to build your color. You use less...

you have a picture you can show? this wouldn't be the weirdest thing I've seen these models exhibit, but it would come close.

man, I have a version of onyx 5 that will run this, I know because, I ran a 600 with it, way back when, my problem is I don't have the hardware key any longer. I'll look around, but it could be anywhere, considering it's been at least 10 years since I had it installed...

can you attach a picture of your test print so we can see what you are looking at?

ok, back to the original problem above; This particular issue really does look like a cap station gone bad, I don't see any yellow in the test print, and the cyan looks very dark, leading me to believe cross contamination of the ink in the cap station. here is what I recommend, inspect your...

The DX5 printheads are relatively new to the scene, subsequently they carry a bigger price tag, there are a few people here on s101 that offer aftermarket heads, looks around.

each pump handles 2 colors, so you will only use 3 sections. as for their placement it doesn't really matter. Typically the configuration is black and magenta section 1 (pump one front) cyan and yellow section 2 ( pump one back) Lm and Lc section 3 ( pump 2 front) section four ( pump 2 back )...

if it was a mimaki I would recommend a nozzle wash, which is nothing more then filling the cap station with cleaning solution, and letting it sit for a while. I worked on a mutoh not that long ago, that the test print looked 100x worse then this, and yet still printed fine. It's an odd machine...

what does the test print look like after the drop out? Additionally is it a gradual drop out or significant like all at once?

One of the techs in my network is actually based in florida, if you send me a message with your contact info, I can forward it to my main office and I'll try to get him in touch with you.

While it's not outside the realm of possibility that the fw could have become corrupted, it's very rare. I'm agreeing with artbot, it looks like a data issue. While the data cables may be new, you could have gotten a bad one delivered. Power off as explained above, and switch data cables to...

I'm a service tech, it's what I do for a living, I prefer to use a loupe, but I can see how it can get tiresome. One of the techs in my network has one of these, and I'm seriously considering getting it, it's easy to use, and gives great magnification...

the "S" series has the pumps on top, in each pump there are 2 tubes, one will be very long, the other, relatively short. The short tube leads to the capping station and is connected by a little metal tube ( it slides inside the tubes to tie them together) The longer tubes lead to the waste...

While it's possible to replace the tubing, I wouldn't recommend it. Even though the pumps are fairly straight forward, if you don't get the tubing in the exact right spot, it will just cause problems, cause failures, and in general just increase your headaches. Better served to buy new pumps...

that most definately looks like a damper issue.

from looking at the test print, I seriously doubt you could get them more out of whack then they already are, just remember that in the case of head alignments a little bit goes a long way.

while this isn't really applicable to the JV3, remember to run your heaters hot, hotter, hottest ( in the feed direction) It used to be thought that hot, hottest hot was best, but this results in media rippling. Just another helpful hint.

that is printer error 120x not 1290 HP is pretty specific about these error codes since there are so many parts that can, and will go wrong. From the service manual;

what kind of printer?