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I'm pretty sure this is an omega issue, I just created a file in PS that is 250"x250" @ 300 dpi, so I know PS will handle it. Then again, I've never liked omega so...

on which crop mark is it erroring out on? If it errors out on the first to the right, your positioning is incorrect. If it errors out on the first to the left, you have a skew issue. Where are you in VA? Drop me a PM and maybe I can help you over the phone

I have a wacom intuos 2 that I bought brand new, I use frequently, and it has been through mutliple moves with me. For fine retouching, or drawing in general I would recommend it without reservations. I absolutely love mine. They aren't the cheapest, but it really is durable. Mine is a 9x12...

just my past experience with cutters leads me to believe that it's not possible. the metal platen will catch and hold the magnetic material. I could be wrong tho.

media compensation, basically put, is the amount of media that is sent through the printer each pass. The compensation is measured in pixels ( I believe) so unless you are inputting significant numbers, and changes you make are difficult to see with the naked eye. Depending on your setup...

it isn't uncommon for a jv3 head to become "vapor locked" once it's either run out of ink, or on installation of a new head. Pulling ink at the pumps will tell you if that is indeed the case. Take the drain line from the cap station, attach a syringe, and gently pull ink through the head. Once...

no other errors in the system? it boots fine etc?

there are 2 possibilities to get through this, one is to edit the parameters to tell the printer that you've done the clean and fill. ( this I don't recommend for end users, because you can seriously bork stuff if you get something wrong) The other ( which I just heard today in fact) is that...

if you have ink in the slot, it's good and not extremely out of date, hit; Cancel and down arrow, this will force it to accept the ink. Hit enter through the next couple screens until you get to the Non-HP ink, up arrow to select, then press and hold "shift-ok" for about one second to confirm...

if you have a local service tech give him a call, there is a way to input this in the service menu, telling the printer that you've done an ink fill, and what the ink set is. Since you can seriously dork up your printer, I'm not going to even recommend that an end user try.

the wiper blades on a jv3 are on a timer, they're designed to be replaced after "x" many wipes, often this is too soon, but to be safe you can access the change wiper menu through the maintenance menu. Once it's done hit enter and it resets the timer. the wiper is relatively soft rubber and is...

Actually, let's start at the basics. Can you post a picture? Let's look see what is going on, it's amazing what you can tell from a simple pic. There are multiple variables that could result in poor output from your printer.

the error is being caused by your cap station failing. The environmental conditions will affect it, but the fact remains the cap station is failing. I don't say this to be harsh, but allow you ample time to start saving your money so you can get it replaced. It will start intermittently, then...

it's basically an end of life for the cap station. It's an entire unit that includes 6 priming assemblies, 6 caps, the motor, and all associated bits.

I don't know of a way to remove ink from the encoder without ruining the strip, since rubbing alcohol isn't doing it, denatured would be the next bet, but at that point you stand the chance of ruining the strip. I know regular cleaning solution will eat it up. If memory serves me correctly the...

both cases I saw involved after market ink, leading to head failure. That being said, there are a couple things you'll want to look at. when was the last time the caps were replaced? was this dropout gradual, or all at once? when was the last time the priming assemblies were replaced...

couple tricks I suggest people try on the jv3, jv33, and jv5, I can't see the jv4 being that much different. 1. Clean the rail upper and lower with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and a clean rag. 2. Oil the rail with a couple drops left middle and right on the bottom rail, (3-1 oil works best) If...

the cp100s is a solid performer. Provided the heads are still firing well, this is a bargain. Be warned tho, this particular unit communicates via scsi ( double check, I think the newer units have USB) so that would be something you'd need to get fixed on your end if you decide to go with it.

it requires removing the head controller board. This is at a point where I'd never recommend a client doing it themselves, the amount of damage you "could" do far outweighs the cost of the tech coming out to fix it.

The primary question here should be viewing distance. If it's something that people are able to get right up on, you're hosed. The file size needed to maintain image integrity will be ginormous. If it's being hung like a billboard, then you've got some play room.