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Not in digital printing. The only time I regularly used them was when I had a job re-creating art for lithography printing where the registration tolerances were so unpredictable that you needed an overprint.

For a few years I went around installing printers on military bases. Mostly Air national guard and Air Force bases. I installed their printer!

It depends on the model. Older Rolands were pretty bad at keeping track of ink levels. I'm not sure how well the new ones do but it is an entirely different system so I assume it's improved. For example, older Rolands would simply reset to 100% full if you pulled them out and back in again.

You don't have to use perf unless they want to be able to see through from the inside. If you do use perf, you can use liquid laminate but also any optically clear pressure sensitive laminate as well. If it's something they want to last for a good while, use the pressure sensitive laminate...

It uses the same ink level sensor as the Rolands but the ink chip itself is different.

That's one model I don't know a lot about as you know. Does it have sub tanks? If it does, I would assume it's a version of a sub tank error which usually means the sub tank bag is deformed so it's not tripping the sensor, the sensor is bad, or there is a clog preventing the sub tank from...

We've got a couple bottles of the Mimaki LUS120 clear ink for anyone who can use it up fast. Expires 09/2023. Mimaki gives 60 days after before the chips get kicked out. $89 each or make an offer on both. https://www.solventinkjet.com/product-page/mimaki-lus120-ink-clear-1-liter-expired-06-2023

The JV100 works with Flexi fine but there aren't a lot of color profiles available.

It's most likely an air leak in the system above the dampers. Did you change the o-rings and connectors with the dampers? If not, that's where I would start. They are usually the culprit.

Here's a link to the profile page for that model in case you haven't found it. https://mimaki.com/product/inkjet/i-flat/ujf-6042mkII/download.html They are .ICC files so they should work in Flexi but sometimes Mimaki ICC files don't. Worth a shot though.

Always consult Linus before buying! That's about what my cable management looks like too.

I'm a build it yourself kind of guy because you can usually get more bang for your buck and I also just enjoy it. But I understand why someone would just want to pay and be done with it for sure. My thoughts on what you should look for below: If you want fast RIP speeds, processor clock speed...

They should have some sort of dealer agreement that states how they can use logos etc. I don't think you have any liability if they end up getting in trouble. Just make sure to get paid upfront. For example, as a Mimaki dealer, when referring to their printers, technically I am not supposed to...

Try another com port if you have the option. Flexi has a tendency to change the port randomly.

You can do this in Photoshop in case you didn't know. In the eye dropper settings you can specify how many pixels to sample and it will give you the average color of the sample.

This or if you're using Flexi, use the color mapping tool. You pick the pantone you want to match, it prints out a chart of a range of colors around that pantone, you pick which one that looks like it the most, and then from that point on Flexi maps that color to that pantone. Pretty useful in...

This is very much like printer techs. You can either be independent or work for a dealer full time. As an independent tech, you get the full $200+ per hour but you also don't get paid when there isn't work. I've only known a few guys who can actually pull of being independent successfully. As a...

Good advice above^ Also, when cuts don't return to the origin properly like that it is also a sign that the offset setting is incorrect. Doublecheck that setting is the proper setting for your specific blade.

Here's a free course on using Verilith: https://mutoh.thinkific.com/courses/vertelith If you scroll to the bottom, there's also a free add on about braille. Might help!

Create a file that is just a crosshair and set it up to be print and cut. Then print and cut it. Then go into the mark detect settings on the plotter and adjust the X and Y offset settings to move the cut to the proper place. I'd make a file with a bunch of crosshairs each with their own crop...