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I'd suggest getting a tech. It's going to be some sort of electrical issue and a tech should be able to isolate where it is. This particular model had issues with electromagnetic interference so if you've added a new piece of equipment recently, try powering that down and see if it changes...

I agree with above but you might also change the dampers and see if that helps at all. Sometimes a bad damper can cause such bad cross contamination. But it is very likely internal head damage.

Unfortunately that looks like an electrical issue. Have you received any random errors recently? Especially if you have been getting FIFO underrun errros it would indicate a bad trailing cable.

Ideally a damper should be about half full but it's very common for them to be completely full especially on older dampers. It's also more common if you use a bulk system for them to be full. Be careful taking those dampers out for too long as well. Exposing them to light for too long could clog...

You probably popped one of the head fuses on the main board. Double check your head cables to make sure they are plugged in nice and straight and aren't damaged or dirty. Then test the fuses on the main board. I've attached a picture where they are. They are 750mA fuses and user replaceable.

That sounds more like a profile issue to me. Are you 100% no one has been playing with the color settings in Rasterlink? Maybe the default profile was changed?

The amount of ink spent on cleanings is well worth keeping the head working. If the cost of waste ink is breaking the bank, something is not setup correctly. As a dealer I've had floor models that don't get used very much and only sit there doing cleanings for the most part. In my experience, if...

If your dealer tech doesn't offer the service, your best bet is contacting Mimaki directly. They are right there in Georgia so I'm sure one of their techs can help you out. But as mentioned above, watch some YouTube videos and play around with it. That's how a lot of people learn it. Also, PDS...

No a cleaning cycle once you get it to the new location. It will get bumped around when moving so there might be some air bubbles that needs to be pulled out but usually it only needs a simple cleaning and you're good to go!

There is no rubber latex in latex inks so you're good from that perspective. The polymers in the ink are latex like so they call it latex ink which is confusing. Also, certain people are sensitive to UV inks. One guy here on signs101 had a pretty intense reaction to the inks and basically...

I'd clean the encoder strip first. It might just be a coincidence that you're only seeing it in the cyan but vertical banding is usually caused by a dirty or damaged encoder. It could be the head but I would change the dampers before changing the head to rule them out.

I'd do the print length compensation in Flexi and see if it works. It can be more of a band aid but if it consistently fixes the issues and doesn't need to be adjusted every time you print, it might be worth trying.

Yeah basically anytime you see lines like that it's going to be missing nozzles or a print feed issue.

Looks like you're probably missing nozzles in your nozzle check. Did the person you bought it from train you on the maintenance of the machine at all? There's a few basic things you need to do to prevent the nozzles from clogging. It's possible it needs a new cap top as well.

You can expect to be +/- about an 1/8th of an inch on prints that long so a whole inch is out of spec. Do you see any sort of distortion in the print? Any banding? If you scroll the material forward using the buttons on the panel, do you hear any thumping noises?

It's most likely a failing head but you can try changing the head cables out to see if they're causing the issue. What does your nozzle check look like?

The newer MS31 inks dry faster so it can dry faster in the maintenance parts as well. They came out with a modification to the waste tubes to prevent the clogging and you can flush cleaning solution through once in a while to prevent it as well. At the end of the day I've had many customers...

You will need a laminator with heat assist to allow the laminate to conform with the edge of the ink. I have heard of some people using certain laminates that work better without the heat assist as well so hopefully they will comment.

You should be able to see ink flowing through those lines during the pump cycle. The fact that you pulled dry ink out of the tubes means they are probably clogged in other places. I would disconnect the tubes from the cap top and try to push cleaning solution through the pump and into the waste...

The pump tubes connect to the two nozzles that are right next to each other and the air release tube connects to the 3rd, offset nozzle.